While vitamin and wellness patches have become somewhat ubiquitous in the wellness space, their usage is nothing new. Since the very earliest medical records, transdermal methods have been called upon to cure various ailments. It is said that the Ancient Egyptian and Babylonians around 3000 BC created ointments, salves and patches to deliver plant, animal or mineral extracts, but this technology has, unsurprisingly, expanded in the thousands of years since.
Rather than treating a local condition or ache and pain, in 1979, a patch was approved to target motion sickness and soon after, nicotine patches were introduced in 1991 for smokers looking to curb the habit. These were landmark developments in systemic drug delivery through the skin and laid the groundwork for the supplement alternatives that followed.
To be effective, oral supplements have to survive digestion in the gastrointestinal tract and be made available for absorption, with the latter varying according to the nutrient, formulation and an individual’s physiology. Transdermal delivery, in theory, bypasses this, but it introduces a different challenge: can the active ingredients in modern-day wellness patches actually get absorbed through the skin?
“The key scientific question with any wellness patch is not simply whether an ingredient is listed on the pack, but whether that ingredient can actually leave the patch, cross the skin barrier and reach the bloodstream in a meaningful amount,” Dr Dalia Attia, senior lecturer in Cosmetic Science at the Leicester School of Pharmacy, tells me. “Transdermal delivery is a well-established pharmaceutical approach, but success depends on the molecule, the dose, the formulation and the delivery technology.”
The problem is that the skin barrier is exactly that, a barrier, and some ingredients are simply too large to be meaningfully absorbed. “The skin is specifically designed to keep substances out, and the major barrier is the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis,” Dr Attia continues. “For a substance in a patch to have a systemic effect, it must first be released from the patch, partition into the stratum corneum, diffuse across it, move into the viable epidermis and dermis, and then be taken up by dermal capillaries. That is a far more demanding process than simply placing an ingredient on the skin.”
Dr Richard H. Guy, Emeritus Professor of Pharmaceutical Sciences at the University of Bath, references literature that suggests any ingredient “with a molecular weight of more than 1,000 Daltons permeates the skin very poorly. There is no exact cut-off per se, but there are very few drugs with a molecular weight greater than 500-800 that have been shown to cross the skin’s barrier passively (i.e., without perturbing the barrier with a physical means, such as microneedles).” With this in mind, the likes of collagen are far too large for transdermal delivery. Some smaller peptides, such as Matrixyl and Argireline, and vitamins A and C, are smaller molecules, but size is just one factor. They also need to have appropriate lipophilicity, appropriate ionisation, the right formulation and enough contact time.
And then there’s the question of whether, if it is able to pass the upper skin layers, it can reach the bloodstream at a measurable concentration. The clinical evidence is limited. “Some actives can be absorbed through the skin, but a patch format alone is not proof that clinically meaningful absorption is taking place,” details Dr Attia. She spotlights nicotine and hormone patches, which she says, “are specifically designed, optimised and clinically tested to deliver known amounts into the systemic circulation” and are supported by “pharmacokinetic data, including blood concentration–time profiles.” Yet, she flags, “For vitamin, mineral and botanical wellness patches, the evidence is far less consistent.” There are exceptions, and she shares that melatonin has “shown measurable plasma concentrations after transdermal administration in human studies,” while a small trial study “reported an increase in serum vitamin D after prolonged use of a specific vitamin D patch.”
Vogue’s Ellie Davis applying Kind Patches’ Stress Down and Defence Patches
The clinical evidence remains limited, but I was intrigued by the quantity of anecdotal evidence from my friends and colleagues about their experiences with wellness patches. My housemate, for example, swears by Kind Patches’ Dream Patches to ensure a deep slumber after finding that magnesium supplements have the opposite effect on her and keep her awake. Beauty editor Chloe Burcham leaves Ross J. Barr’s Healing Patches on after acupuncture, believing they enhance its results, while beauty writer Tracy Achonwa says What’s That Patch Crave Control left her with fewer cravings throughout the day. And whether placebo or not, I felt calm after affixing the Stress Down onto my wrists.
So while the evidence for wellness patches remains far more limited than that for established oral supplements, below are the wellness and vitamin patches with the seal of approval, as well as further answers from the two transdermal experts to our burning questions.
Why it’s -approved: Infused with an army of calming and sleep-inducing ingredients, the Dream Patches work as part of a holistic routine to encourage better sleep hygiene practices. The two types of magnesium work together to improve sleep quality and are joined by passionflower extract and ashwagandha to calm anxiety, and L-Theanine for stress reduction. I found that it really helped me feel drowsy and doze off, while reviewers claim similar experiences with staying asleep for longer. They are more effective on day two or three and are best used daily.
Why it’s -approved: Ross J. Barr is a registered acupuncturist and created his eponymous patches to support wellbeing outside of his practice – each targeted for a different concern, from sleep to stress to fertility (he is also a fertility consultant and counsellor). Healing is designed to soothe pain and inflammation. They shine during period pain or musculoskeletal pain, especially joint pain. The patches are infused with safflower and clove to encourage blood flow, cinnamon to act as an antibacterial and borneol to calm inflammation.
What’s That Patch Crave Control
- Why it’s -recommended: If you’ve been following the TikTok boom, you’ll know berberine patches have amassed a huge fan base. Offering an alternative for the pill-averse, these form promises transdermal delivery for a gradual delivery of berberine that skips digestion and is absorbed through the skin. It’s worth noting that research on efficacy is not as extensive for berberine patches as it is for pills – but when we tried the patches, we did notice fewer cravings throughout the day.
- Designed to stick on skin all day for a slow release of the extract, these can sometimes be quite tricky to take off. We recommend wetting the patch with a bit of water first for the easiest removal.
- Berberine dosage: Not stated
The What Supp Co.
Why it’s -approved: The What Supp Co. has designed its patches to mimic those used in medical settings in terms of composition to minimise the chance of a reaction. Although they should be worn for 10 to 12 hours, it doesn’t take long to start feeling the benefits of these patches, especially due to the aromatherapy properties that immediately ignite the senses. Protect Energy offers a boost on a sluggish day with revving ingredients like three types of vitamin B, green tea and caffeine to fight fatigue. They are scented with sandalwood.
Why it’s -approved: Rather than calling upon the likes of melatonin that can make you feel sluggish come morning, Kloris has favoured valerian, passionflower and hops in its beautifully designed patches. Ritualistic in nature, they assist in creating intentional practices surrounding a bedtime routine where the act of applying them and winding down for bed puts you in the mindset for a sound slumber.
- Why it’s -approved: If you’re not a fan of taking daily tablets, using a time-released transepidermal patch may be a better solution. In addition to NMN which boosts NAD+ levels, improves DNA repair and maintains overall cellular health, the formula includes resveratrol to improve cellular longevity and n-acetylcysteine (NAC) an antioxidant that targets the signs of ageing by protecting against oxidative stress.
- Worth knowing: To enhance cognition, focus and concentration even further, the formula is loaded with powerful mushroom extracts of lion’s mane and cordyceps.
- Why it’s If you’re not someone who enjoys taking ingestible supplements every day, kind patches are a great alternative. The sticky patches are fortified with a blend of 25 vitamins, antioxidants and minerals which are absorbed through the skin and into the bloodstream steadily over an eight-hour period. As well as vitamins A, C, and E that promote healthy vision and skin health and support immune function, there are vitamins D3 and K2 for bone health and B Vitamins for energy and nerve function.
- “This way of supplementation has been a game-changer for me since I discovered it. Even though my intentions are good, I struggle to take pills long enough to feel the benefits. Since using these, I have stuck to my once daily patch, which I apply after my morning shower and remove before bed. As well as having an impact on my energy levels, I love how discreet and easy to use they are. Genius.” –
How does the absorption from a wellness patch compare to taking the same ingredient orally?
The two absorption methods work in very different ways, and both have their barriers. When taking an oral supplement, “the ingredient passes through the gastrointestinal system and, in many cases, undergoes first-pass metabolism in the liver, which can reduce the proportion that ultimately reaches the systemic circulation,” explains Dr Attia, but “it can generally accommodate and absorb much larger doses than the skin.” The function of the gut is designed to absorb essential nutrients from the diet, and so, Professor Guy says it “is the go-to delivery route of drug administration.” For this reason, “Generally speaking, therefore, it is more likely that oral absorption will outperform transdermal.”
Transdermal may be more direct through the skin, but has its own set of challenges. “Transdermal delivery avoids the gastrointestinal tract and bypasses hepatic first-pass metabolism, allowing a suitable active ingredient to enter the systemic circulation directly through the skin,” reveals Dr Attia, and so “it can also provide slower, more sustained absorption, producing steadier plasma concentrations rather than the sharper peaks and troughs that may occur following oral administration.” Yet, only select molecules can cross the skin barrier effectively.
The key is the patch itself. Kelly Gilbert, the founder of The What Supp Co., stresses this. “We build ingredient profiles from what can physically make the journey, but honestly, it’s all about the patch composition. Occlusive, waterproof patches are the gold standard and what we use at The What Supp Co. Film (not fabric) patches – exactly the same as those used in prescription patches like HRT – create a sealed, moist environment on the skin to allow ingredients to penetrate effectively.”
Are there any validated mechanisms to enhance penetration?
When it comes to passive diffusion technology, Dr Attia says there is a “substantial body of pharmaceutical research focused on improving skin penetration,” and the result is chemicals like fatty acids that are used to encourage the better absorption of the less easily absorbed ingredients. These may work, according to Professor Guy by “perturbing its structure and enhancing diffusion of the active.”
But there is also physical enhancement technology, and these are used by skincare brands like Hero for acne or 111SKIN for wrinkles and fine lines. Microneedling patches are one such type, and work by creating “microscopic channels through the stratum corneum and can dramatically improve delivery of ingredients that would otherwise penetrate poorly,” as detailed by Dr Attia.
She wants to make clear that “consumers should not assume that every adhesive wellness patch uses these advanced technologies. A conventional flat patch placed on intact skin will usually rely mainly on passive diffusion, sometimes helped by chemical enhancers and the occlusive effect of the patch itself.”
What ingredients are more likely to be effectively absorbed through the skin and what are most unlikely?
As mentioned above, ingredients with low molecular weights are more likely to work in transdermal patches, but they also need to have a balance of lipid and water solubility. “As a practical rule, compounds below about 500 Daltons, with moderate lipophilicity and a relatively low required daily dose, are far more plausible candidates than large, highly polar or highly charged substances,” explains Dr Attia.
On the other hand, “large proteins and peptides, highly charged molecules, many minerals, and ingredients requiring a high daily dose are poor candidates,” she continues and also spotlights vitamin B12 as an example.
She also wants to make clear that absorption is also determined by “biological and formulation factors such as skin condition, hydration, site of application, temperature and blood flow.” So, the effectiveness will be very person- and time-dependent.
Concluding note
Dr Attia says, “A patch is a delivery system, not proof of delivery. For a wellness patch to work systemically, the active ingredient must be released from the patch, cross the stratum corneum and reach the bloodstream at a concentration capable of producing an effect. Whether that happens depends on the molecule, the dose, the formulation and any penetration-enhancement technology used. Without human pharmacokinetic or clinical evidence, the presence of an ingredient in a patch alone cannot tell us how much, if any, reaches the circulation.”
Meet the experts