Several years ago, fashion month could have doubled up as a chunky boot convention, with brands like Ganni and Balenciaga making lug soles and printed dresses a uniform among street-style types. But over the past few years soles have steadily been getting a little less stompy.

After years of chunky hiking-style boots dominating, in autumn/winter 2025 a new skin-tight silhouette came to the fore at the likes of Miu Miu, Givenchy and Toteme. It’s a mood that is continuing into winter 2026, with a more elevated take on fitted boots as championed by Matthieu Blazy at Chanel. They are sculpting, but they don’t quite tip strictly into sock boot territory either – the spray-on jersey and Lycra boots that Demna championed circa 2016.

Chanel AW26.

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These boots lightly skim over the ankle and thighs, with no gap between the fabric and your calf, beautifully balancing exaggerated proportions or oversized shapes. We advise you leave the bodycon to below the knee, and keep the rest of the outfit either more fluid with silken dresses as seen at Kallmeyer or with Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy-coded staples that are more fitted, but never cling. Think coats with an A-line silhouette or pencil skirts that flare off the hips, as seen at Chanel and Courrèges. Although these boots were seen throughout the collections, they were integral to the autumn look at Chanel where tweed jackets and skirt suits were balanced with fitted over-the-knee boots that have the house’s distinct toe cap detail, with a mix of suede and leather.

Courrèges AW26.

Courtesy of Courrèges

Victoria Beckham has been championing a skintight knee-high for years, however there has also been a rise in fitted ankle boots crafted from very supple leather with a close-to-the-ground sole. It’s a very specific style of flat boot that minimalist brands are clearly taken with, as the likes of Toteme, Dear Frances, Le Monde Beryl and more have their own version of this shoe.

From swinging coats to A-line skirts, these boots will provide an elegant, but minimalist, foundation to your winter looks. Keep reading for some of the best styles to add to your autumn wardrobe.

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