Pieter Mulier’s denim proposition for autumn/winter 2023 was dubbed the “horseshoe”, defined for its curved leg shape. Slighter cuts, which taper closer to the body, have since infiltrated the mainstream market. And now, the dramatic silhouette series continues with another style: the “balloon” trouser which, as its name suggests, takes on a sculptural appearance, with arced legs like the horseshoe.

Alaïa’s AW23 “horseshoe” jeans kickstarted the hype for barrel-leg shapes.

Unlike its equestrian predecessor, though, the balloon is generally less rigid, often made from softer materials like cotton, linen and silk twill, offering a lightweight fit. More structured versions are also available, made from wool or thicker blends, retaining the billowed “balloon” leg with generous proportions and roomy legs.

A great balloon trouser – also known as a barrel-leg trouser – hinges almost entirely on the thickness and quality of the fabrication and the way that the pleats are applied to achieve the fit. Free-flowing materials can run the risk of looking cheap, while pleats in the wrong places can be unflattering. We recommend trying a few before settling on a shape, and make sure they pair well with shoes you own.

To offset the outward silhouette, most balloon and barrel-leg trousers are cut with high waistbands, but there are iterations in mid- and low-rise, too. There are plenty to pick from, be it belt looped, drawstring or elasticated, and some have features like pockets and cuffs that add interest. With this in mind, styling should be kept simple, since the trousers do the talking: fitted T-shirts or long-sleeved tops pair well with balloon-leg trousers, while shoe-wise, ballet flats, pointed-toe pumps and trainers can all work.

Shop the best barrel-leg and balloon trousers available now: