
If you’re currently planning a far-flung, postcard-perfect honeymoon, chances are your mind has gone straight to the Maldives – that dreamy blue expanse of overwater villas, ice-white sand and floating breakfast trays dotted with tropical flowers. Now, you can’t go wrong with any of that – but, I’m here to present you with an alternative; another classic post-wedding destination which, to some, may feel more rooted in its environment, a little more connected to its country’s culture and a better fit for the more adventurous and outdoorsy among us, while also being jaw-droppingly luxurious: the Seychelles, and, specifically, Cheval Blanc’s spectacular property in the East African archipelago.
While taking a seaplane to your Maldivian outpost – magical though that is – feels like jetting off to another planet, the Seychelles is gloriously, unapologetically itself from the moment you land in Mahé. There’s something distinctive about the golden light, as well as the laidback languor of locals, as they line up at beachside bars at the end of the day. (Unlike in many other island nations, all beaches in the Seychelles are publicly accessible and free to visit by law, adding to the egalitarian spirit.) You enter Cheval Blanc Seychelles through a palm-tree filled marshland, a sun-dappled haven of herons and shimmering dragonflies, before zooming up the hill into the dense jungle and to your villa.

One of the Panorama Hill Villas at Cheval Blanc Seychelles, with serene, neutral interiors, an extensive private deck, infinity pool, and views of the surrounding hills and the Indian Ocean.
Truthfully, there are no bad rooms here. Across a wild, almost 200 acres, there are 52 perfectly self-contained villas – giant, multi-bedroom properties, ideal for hosting lavish gatherings; beachside villas which offer quicker access to the shore; and Jungle Hill villas which feel even more private and tucked away. The Panorama Hill villas might just be the best choice, though – their views, an almost 360-degree feast of verdant mountains, pale sand, turquoise ocean and rosy sunsets, are unparalleled.


An aerial view of a Panorama Hill Villa at Cheval Blanc Seychelles, with the sea and sunset behind it.
Each and every villa has an expansive private infinity pool, deck and endless space to lounge about in. Meanwhile, inside, it’s very possible to get lost as you make your way between your outdoor and indoor dining areas, palatial lounge, walk-in dressing room, serene bedroom and labyrinthine bathroom. (On my last day of a four-night stay, I discovered a private, shaded outdoor shower that I’d somehow managed to miss even after what I believed was an exhaustive inspection.) There’s a thoughtfulness to every aspect of the design, too, from the use of natural materials to the subtle sculptural details courtesy of architect Jean-Michel Gathy (also the mastermind behind Cheval Blanc Randheli), Madagascan artist Joël Andrianomearisoa’s unique tactile tapestries, which hang above each bed, and the woody, floral scent which pervades the space – “Jungle Chic”, specially created for the hotel by Guerlain’s perfumer Thierry Wasser. Take home a bottle and spritz, and you’ll find yourself transported back in time, breathing in that sea breeze, hearing the crashing of waves over granite rocks and the distant music of birds circling overhead, before they gather at your swimming pool for a quick drink.

Now, it would be very easy not to leave this private oasis for the duration of your stay. Each villa comes with a dedicated “majordome”, a butler who you can WhatsApp for the length of your trip, to arrange a private sunrise yoga session on your deck, say, or a late, in-villa breakfast of freshly-baked French pastries (a nod to Cheval Blanc’s origins – the brand also has properties in Paris, Saint-Tropez and Courchevel). But, there’s also food worth venturing out for. Ask your majordome to drive you down the hill in a buggy to the beach for a dip and nap, after which lunch at the Creole-inspired Sula is non-negotiable – an octopus carpaccio with zingy yuzu dressing, followed by Madagascar prawns and a pineapple tart with lime-zested Chantilly cream, all slurped up with a view of the horizon and sand between your toes. If you’re lucky, you might even be called down to the beach between courses by the hotel staff, as I was, to witness the hatching of baby sea turtles.


Then, come dinnertime, there are a range of enticing options to choose from. Le 1947, a bastion of French fine dining, promises a precisely-tweezered tasting menu, but for something slightly more casual, though still elevated, you have to decide between Japanese and Italian. At the architecturally-striking Vivamento, with its wave-like spiral staircase and graphic fresco on the wall, crafted by Parisian artist Maximilien Pellet, the evening calls for fritto misto, risotto gamberi and fresh lobster, with a tiramisu to share as the sun sets.

Vivamento’s crudo di tonno, with raw marinated tuna, olives, basil, capers, lime and tomato.

Cheval Blanc Seychelles’s indoor-outdoor Italian restaurant, Vivamento, with its wall fresco by Parisian artist Maximilien Pellet.
Alternatively, there’s sushi rolls in the most dramatic and romantic of settings: Mizumi, a grand, Creole house by the property’s candlelit lake, where guests leisurely work their way through a menu of beef tataki, tuna toro sashimi and mochi desserts.


Once stuffed, you might struggle to do more than roll yourself to the spa. Tucked up in the jungle, past thick clusters of trees and through a canyon of mammoth granite boulders, it’s a blissful refuge designed by Guerlain, where deeply soothing massages utilising gently warmed seashells are given in hilltop treatment rooms with stunning views of the ocean.


And if, after a rest, you’re able to leave the hotel, well, then, even better. Go diving to gaze on magnificent coral reefs, mysterious shipwrecks, gentle whale sharks, frolicking dolphins and elegant eagle rays in the crystal clear waters. Or arrange an adventure by land, a private hike with an experienced guide that’ll take you deep into the jungle and down into hidden, deserted coves. The three-hour climb I did, which ended with clamouring up a rocky slope to an extraordinary viewpoint, from where I could see an empty golden beach, emerald green hills and the startling aquamarine of the sea, was easily the highlight of the entire trip.

The poolside outdoor seating at Vivamento, from where you’ll have a perfect view of the sunset.
Which brings me to the people: at many similar resort hotels, the experience feels seamless because the staff strives to remain almost invisible – drinks are topped up without you even noticing; towels laid out while you’re in the pool. But, at Cheval Blanc Seychelles, to the hotel team’s credit, they do not. From your highly enthusiastic and knowledgeable hiking guide to the numerous majordomes you’ll hitch a ride with on your way back to your villa, to the restaurant managers and masseuses, those you interact with – much like the locals outside of the hotel, too – are warm, friendly, funny, curious and chatty; as keen to help you charter a sailboat or jet-ski from the hotel as they are to recommend a raucous dive bar miles away from it. The people of the Seychelles aren’t shy, generally speaking, and this adds greatly to the joy of being in their beautiful country.


It all makes for a once-in-a-lifetime experience which grounds you in place, in these lush surroundings, while also totally sweeping you off your feet. What else could you possibly want?
Cheval Blanc Seychelles on Mahé Island offers villas from £1,574 per night.
