Back in June, a group of editors, sequestered away inside a chic, secure location in Paris, were asked to put their phones into boxes, before being ushered into an intimate space. Under figurative (and most likely literal!) lock and key, they were granted a first view of the latest pieces in Van Cleef And Arpels’s Alhambra collection – a four leaf-clover adorned signature of the house since 1968, and an arm candy essential for those that holiday in St Tropez or Capri – imagined not in classic guilloché gold or mother of pearl, but in rather a shocking raspberry hue. While Alhambra bracelets, earrings and necklaces also feature talismanic charms crafted from carnelian, tiger’s eye, onyx and malachite, the use of transparent enamel, glittering with microscopic gold particles, ushered in the design’s most retina-searing iterations yet.

The Story Behind The Classic Tiffany Bracelet That Became A Society Signature

Alhambra sautoir by Van Cleef & Arpels.

HardWear bracelet by Tiffany & Co.

T|Tiffany & Co. Studio

It’s not just Van Cleef & Arpels bringing vivid to their classic collections. “Right now, Tiffany & Co is going through a major colour renaissance,” Christopher Young, vice president & creative director of Tiffany Patrimony and global creative visual merchandising, explained in the November issue of British . The American brand is synonymous with prismatic hues: its first chief gemologist Dr George Frederick Kunz first identified the pale pink gemstone kunzite in a Tiffany & Co lab. This month, the house has not only released fine jewellery iterations of its signature Jean Schlumberger-crafted Enamel bracelets in its signature azure-blue shade, but has also reinterpreted the chunky links of its HardWear line with beads of smooth turquoise. These were debuted on the tennis court (!) by Amanda Anisimova during the women’s singles matches of the 2026 US Open, and on the red carpet in Los Angeles by Emma D’Arcy, who paired them with a white tuxedo jacket and bleached denim, courtesy of Dries Van Noten.

Amanda Anisimova wears Tiffany & Co HardWear pieces, accented with turquoise, to play in the 2026 US Open.

At Pomellato, the Milanese jeweller renowned for pairing and setting bright gemstones in surprising ways, the just-launched Moneta Orientale collection reinterprets a disc-shaped yellow gold pendant from 1997 into 33 different colourful iterations. These are crafted from unusual combinations including chrysoprase and emeralds, rhodochrosite and demantoids, sodalite and rubies. “What distinguishes this new design is the frame surrounding the coin, together with the two prongs that hold it in place, a signature detail of the brand. Above all, however, it is the use of colour… inspiring tone-on-tone harmonies, striking contrasts and unexpected combinations of hard stones and pavé diamonds,” says Vincenzo Castaldo, creative director of Pomellato.

Moneta Orientale collection by Pomellato.

…inspired by an archival disc pendant from the brand’s 1997 collection.

Other jewellers playing with the colour wheel? Bulgari’s Colors collection features bracelet iterations of the brand’s signature coiled gold Tubogas designs – first introduced to the Roman house in 1948 – realised as ribbed yellow- and rose-gold bangles accented with vivid coloured stones. Chunky Doppio Baccellato rings, boasting shanks in tactile ribbed gold, feature domed cabochon-cut coloured stones in their centre, from juicy period to amethyst.

At Messika, the Parisian maison’s signature So Move collection – which features hollowed-out pendants, suspending single floating diamonds – now includes necklaces and drop earrings accented with mother or pearl, amazonite and onyx. At Dior, the maison’s classic My Dior designs – which features cuffs and rings crafted from a woven pattern echoing the Napoleon III chairs – have been reimagined using diamonds and head-turning rainbow-hued lacquer.

“We’re seeing a real shopping shift towards softer, more nuanced colour,” says Will Wright, director at Wave Antiques, a fifth-generation business nestled in Hatton Garden. “With diamonds, there’s growing interest in champagne, brown and yellow-toned stones, and with sapphires, instead of the traditional mid or dark blue, people are increasingly drawn to lighter blues, greens, teals and softer, warmer shades.” He’s currently on the hunt for pieces that feature alexandrite, a darkly gothic rare stone that flits between purple and black. “It has this constantly changing quality, depending on different lighting conditions, that very few stones can match.”

My Dior cuff by Dior Joalleire.

Doppio Baccellato rings by Bulgari.

So Move earrings by Messika.

Charlie Barron, Mayfair-based antiques expert and founder of Barron London, agrees: “The strongest appetite in coloured gemstones will always be the big three: ruby, sapphire and emerald. My clients desire important stones that are easy and fun to wear. Especially in big bold earrings. Our vintage Bulgari earrings are the perfect example.” His favourite coloured gemstone right now? “The new star of the show is Paraíba tourmaline. Its electric green-blue colour is unlike any other stone. Over the past 10 years, we have seen prices rise far further than expected. It seems the demand is limitless.”