A grey marl tracksuit doesn’t usually get “star billing” in one’s wardrobe. Instead, it’s the equivalent of a comfort blanket; something you pull on when you’re craving cosiness or convenience. This belies its rather fashionable past. Danny Zuko wore a grey marl tracksuit in , a “look” which is often forgotten about in comparison to his collar-popped leather jacket, but is essential to his character development (Coach Calhoun tells the T-Bird, “You have to change.” Danny replies, “Well, I know. That’s why I’m here. To change.”) Carrie Bradshaw also chose a grey marl zip-up to rush to her nearest magazine stand on the morning her book review appeared in (incidentally, she paired it with a nightie and a wooden-soled sandal, Scholl’s Pescura; both of which have been riding their own comeback arcs).

Despite these references, grey marl’s association with “loafing” lingers on – until recently, when the fabric reached critical mass. It started with Tracee Ellis Ross, who wore a grey marl tee with baggy grey marl shorts in a post on Instagram. This wasn’t a uniform for deadlifts, but made by Dries Van Noten (the shorts were ruffled at either hip, French terry and Bermuda length). That was mid-June. Since then, grey marl has been given a rebrand on shop floors, where tracksuit bottoms are now “lounge pants” (see, pre-fall Cordera, whose sweats are barrel-legged and zipped at the hem).

If this is the first step in grey marl’s reboot, it’s not entirely unexpected. ’s Mia Portet has already found, “the elevated, yet affordable, one-and-done tracksuit to rule them all”, proclaiming Uniqlo:C’s Sweat Wide Trousers, combined with the brand’s Sweat Oversized Pullover Hoodie, “worth the hype, and then some” all the way back in May 2025. The autumn/winter 2026 catwalks also featured rebooted tracksuit bottoms, from cigarette-pant sweats in the menswear collection of MM6 Maison Margiela, which were styled with plaid shirts, suede coats and shield-like eyewear, to slouchier takes at Dries Van Noten, teamed with point-toe snake-print boots.

The barriers to wearing a grey marl tracksuit outside the context of your sofa have already come down, but joining them are grey marl shorts, a pencil skirt or even a bandeau dress. Dries Van Noten’s skirt, cut from heavy cotton-jersey and gathered so it cascades down one hip, could be paired with a cropped jumper, ribbed socks and jewelled ballet flats this back-to-school season (or, equally, a turtleneck and knee-high boots with a low wedge heel). St Agni’s strapless dress, meanwhile, has panels that give its fluid silhouette a little structure, making it far less casual than you might initially think, especially if partnered with a satin cape, for example, or a mohair cardigan.

The comfort factor remains, but what has changed is the mood: it isn’t sloppy but , courtesy of details such as ruffles or zips, or a slightly different neckline (Arket’s V-neck sweatshirt feels smarter than a round collar, for example). You can further compound this elevated frame of mind by “dressing” your grey marl with pastel hosiery or satin pumps, lace or shearling. Luxe-leaning additions that will mean, even in an office setting, your sweats will always look suitable.

The sweatshirt

The top

The dress

The shorts

100% Cotton Check Shirt

The skirt

The trousers