When I’m tired or stressed, you can read it all over my face. Not just by the dark circles that are glaring signs of a poor night’s slumber, but in my dull and grey-toned complexion. Unfortunately, this is a common occurrence for me and others, and I know I’m not alone in my mission to brighten my skin.
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Lifestyle factors like fatigue and stress are just two of the potential causes of a lacklustre complexion. Facialist Shane Cooper tells me that it could also be due to “a build-up of layers, sun exposure over years, dead skin cells that haven’t turned over properly, hormonal shifts, inflammation left behind from a breakout, a compromised barrier, dehydration, stress, poor sleep, even pollution and screen time now play a part.”
In my pursuit of a megawatt glow, I have tested and tweaked my skincare routine, and I know I have hit the jackpot when my friends, family and colleagues ask how I got my complexion so glowy. The secret? It’s far simpler than it seems. I have incorporated a combination of vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids, azelaic acid and exfoliating acids into my routine, and it has been incredibly effective. However, Cooper warns, “I would never tell somebody to start using all of them at once. That's often where problems begin.” Instead, he stresses, “The real skill isn't knowing these ingredients individually; it's understanding how to combine them without over-treating the skin.” Tarryn Warren, facialist and Niod expert partner, says the key is also consistency. “Pigmentation and uneven tone generally aren’t things I would expect to change overnight,” she emphasises.
Alongside skincare, the food that we eat makes a huge difference, and there are also professional treatments recommended by the experts, but the most effective way to brighten the skin is to determine the cause of dullness – be it prioritising sleep, combating dehydration or reducing stress as much as you possibly can. Below, with the help of the facialists, are the ways in which you can give your skin a glowy boost.
Why it’s -approved: One of the buzziest peptides on the market, NIOD has an effective formulation starring copper that will rival those used in professional settings. Facialist Tarryn Warren says, “I have always been a major fan of CAIS as it’s safe to use on most skin types and heals and regenerates without issues of barrier impairment. I’m partial to gentle long-term products over strong products.”
Why it’s -approved: Skin + Me takes a personalised approach to skincare. Before you have the opportunity to add its products to your basket, you must first complete a questionnaire detailing your concerns and information about your skin type. The final step is a selfie from three angles. Armed with the answers and your photo, the brand’s dermatologists create a customised formula to suit – all without expensive dermatologist fees. Then you wait. In the post, you receive your daily doser, in which one turn is all you need for full-face coverage.
C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum
- Why it’s -approved: C.E.O. has stood the test of time as one of the best vitamin C serums on the beauty shelves despite the huge quantity of new products launched in the category. Sunday Riley’s formula gives a potent 15 per cent dose of the brightening, powerhouse ingredient that has so many benefits for the complexion. Using a potent THD Ascorbate form, it has an immediate impact, boosting radiance while also working on dark spots and discolouration. Where this serum stands out is in its creamy texture, rather than the classic oil. This makes it a great option for combination and oily skin types, where it works to glow, no added grease.
- Key ingredients: THD Ascorbate
The Vitamin C Serum
- Why it’s -approved: This luxurious formula pairs vitamin C with the brand’s proprietary TFC8 technology (a blend of high-grade vitamins, lipids, and high-performing, proprietary peptides), delivering antioxidant protection alongside hydration and radiance. The texture feels elegant on the skin and layers seamlessly beneath sunscreen.
- Key ingredients: Ascorbyl glucoside (vitamin C), Ergothioneine (antioxidant), Advanced TFC8
- Why it’s -approved: The glow is immediate with the Anua PDRN 100 Hyaluronic Acid Glow Pad. Recommended to me by a beauty expert with a radiant complexion, these pads have been a fixture in my routine ever since to recreate that same level of luminosity. They are pre-soaked, and emphasis on the word soaked, with a hydrating combination of hyaluronic acid and peptides as well as PDRN, an emerging ingredient derived from salmon DNA and becoming more ubiquitous on UK beauty shelves thanks to Korean imports. Skin looks plump and smooth after just 10 minutes of application. The rounded pads are small, so you can wipe across the face or leave the treatment in situ under the eye or in areas of concern. As previously mentioned, they are absolutely coated in the formula, which leaves enough to layer over the neck, décolletage and even the arms.
- Key ingredients: hyaluronic acid
- Application time: five to 10 minutes
Celimax The Vita-A Retinal Shot Tightening Booster
Why it’s Celimax’s The Vita-A Retinal Shot Tightening Booster is a targeted wrinkle-smoothing treatment that is powered by retinal (with an a) – a more potent vitamin A derivative than retinol. As retinal converts more efficiently into retinoic acid within the skin, it delivers faster, more visible anti-ageing results, helping to soften fine lines, refine texture and improve overall skin clarity. With almost miraculous effects, just a drop of this Korean cream is enough to boost elasticity in the skin, even on neck wrinkles. The treatment contains 0.1 per cent pure retinal and 3 per cent Matrixyl 3000, a combination that improves skin resilience and texture. Penetrating deeply, it also promotes a more toned and even appearance, while minimising wrinkles. Be cautious, however, if you have really very sensitive skin because retinal is a very potent ingredient, which means the booster is not suitable for all skin types and may cause redness or irritation.
- Why it’s -approved: A beauty-editor favourite for good reason – this formula comes in a ladder strength system, meaning it’s easy to gradually increase strength over time. It harnesses retinaldehyde – a next-generation vitamin A derivative that converts more efficiently within the skin than traditional retinol – working up to 11x faster. The result? Impressive results while remaining gentle when introduced slowly.
- Key ingredients: Retinaldehyde, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, glycerin
Why it’s -approved: Anua’s Gua Sha Cream has the trifecta of hyped skincare ingredients. Encapsulated retinol, collagen and peptides are combined to boost skin elasticity, hydrate and smooth, respectively, with a lightweight, non-greasy texture. It is important to note that collagen is a large molecule and so acts more as a topical, plumping moisturiser rather than encouraging its production. Retinol, on the other hand, has been shown in studies to stimulate skin cells to produce more collagen and is included to firm and minimise the appearance of fine lines. Designed to glide over the contours of the face, from the cheekbones to the jawline and down to the décolleté to counter turkey neck, the inclusion of a gua sha only enhances the treatment. The W-shaped design and cooling tip help to reduce puffiness, boost blood circulation and release muscle tension. There is also the added benefit that it enhances the absorption of the skincare ingredients, so they work synergistically with the formula itself.
Pore Perfecting Collagen Peptide Cream
- Why it’s -approved: Medicube’s Zero Pore Pads have a lot going for them. Namely, Dr Chang likes that the exfoliating pads are both easy to use and gentle on the skin, thanks to the combination of “low-dose AHA and BHA to refine pores and smooth texture,” she says. The alpha hydroxy acids are courtesy of both lactic acid (arguably the gentlest AHA out there) and fruit extracts, while white willow bark serves as a natural source of BHA. They’re also dual-sided so that you can use the textured side for additional physical exfoliation or a soft, smooth side for hydration.
- Key ingredients: Lactic acid, white willow bark extract, cypress tree leaf extract
TAKAMI Daily Renewing Soft Peel
- Why it’s -approved: This niacinamide serum doesn’t just stop excess sebum in its tracks – it mends wounds and targets dark marks, too. Bolstered by brightening ingredients, consistent use helps lift old acne scars and heal active breakouts. Thanks to the work of tranexamic acid – which sounds intense, but accelerates blood clotting on broken skin – it’s a great choice for strengthening an impaired skin barrier.
- Niacinamide strength: 10 per cent
- Key ingredients: tranexamic acid, alpha arbutin
Nourish your skin from the inside out with a healthy diet rich in antioxidants and vitamins, including fatty fish for omega-3 fatty acids, avocado for healthy fats and vitamin E, and beta-carotene-rich foods like sweet potatoes and carrots. “I spent several years developing the skin area of the famous Mayr gut clinic in Austria, so I have seen first-hand the effects of the wrong foods on skin and health,” Warren explains. “For me, a food intolerance test, eating anti-inflammatory foods, nutrient-rich food and focusing on gut health is key to brighter skin. A doctor at the MAYR used to say, “Treat your body like a river, drink water and keep the system flowing and flushing.” The lymph system plays a huge role in removing waste and will ultimately improve the skin.”
Cooper agrees that you should look at your skin health holistically. “What you put on your skin is important, but so is how you’re supporting your body from within. When you combine good nutrition, hydration, and lifestyle habits with the right home skincare and treatments, I see the strongest long-term results.” He recommends Symprove Gut Health Probiotic, which he says he takes religiously and stresses the importance of hydration. “Making sure you're drinking enough water consistently is such a simple lifestyle habit, but it's an important part of supporting both your skin and your overall health.”
Professional treatments can be effective, but they are very dependent on the individual.
- Chemical peels: This, according to Warren, can “help with surface texture and tone,” while stressing the importance of consultation to ensure it is not too aggressive.
- : The same is true for lasers. Cooper believes they “can also be brilliant for the right skin, but professional assessment is really important,” especially when it comes to persistent pigmentation or a skin condition.
- : Cooper explains, “I use medical microneedling for concerns including pigmentation, texture and acne scarring, particularly during the cooler months.” Warren adds that it can be good for “sensitive skin and anti-aging delivering key ingredients based on concerns through shallow needling.”
- : “As a facialist, I also wouldn’t underestimate a really well-designed facial,” says Warren. “Exfoliation, hydration, massage and carefully selected actives can make an immediate difference to luminosity, while a longer-term treatment plan can address the underlying concerns.”
- : Alongside the above, Cooper spotlights “radiofrequency to stimulate collagen and firm the skin, oxygen therapy for an immediate glow, ultrasound infusion to push actives deeper where they’re actually effective, LED to calm inflammation and support repair, and lymphatic drainage to reduce puffiness and support the skin's natural detox process.”
What causes skin to look dull or uneven?
According to Warren, from a facialist’s perspective, there are many causes of dullness – and it is generally a combination of a few things. “Initially, it’s your natural cell turnover rate. As we age, cell turnover increases from 14 to 28 days before going into cellular senescence. This is the first contributing factor. A build-up of dead skin cells can affect how light reflects from the skin, while dehydration can make it look flat and less plump. Pigmentation, sun exposure and post-inflammatory marks can also make the complexion appear uneven. Texture from congestion or excessive oiliness can also give the skin a shiny, dull look.” She adds, “Lifestyle plays a part too – stress, lack of sleep and smoking can all show quite quickly in the skin.”
Which ingredients do you look for when treating uneven tone and dark spots?
The experts agree that the ingredients to look out for include vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids, azelaic acid and exfoliating acids.
- Giving an immediate glowy boost, Cooper lauds this ingredient for its “antioxidant protection and brightness.”
- Universally well-tolerated, this ingredient “helps with tone while supporting the skin barrier
- According to Warren, “these have the best case studies and have a great effect on deeper causes but need to be done carefully, and levels increased over time.” Cooper adds they “are fantastic for cell renewal, pigmentation and texture.”
- Azelaic acid: Gentle but effective, this “can be particularly useful when pigmentation comes alongside inflammation or breakouts.”
- Exfoliating acids: AHA and BHA acids like glycolic and lactic acid “can be great to lift accumulated pigment from a long summer and therefore lighten pigment back to its non-stimulated colour,” says Warren, “but won’t treat the core issue.”
Both say, however, that while individual ingredients are important, so too is formulation. “The biggest thing for me is formulation and consistency rather than chasing the highest percentage,” Cooper explains. “You need something your skin can tolerate. Most pigmentation takes weeks or months to improve, not days, and daily SPF is absolutely essential. I would always rather someone had a simple routine they used consistently than ten active products overwhelming their skin.”
What lifestyle factors make the biggest difference to brightening skin?
“Sleep and hydration are particularly important for recovery and keeping the skin looking fresh and plump,” Cooper says. “Stress can contribute to inflammation and breakouts, while smoking and excessive alcohol can have a real impact on how healthy and radiant the skin looks. Exercise is brilliant for overall health and stress management, but always cleanse the skin properly afterwards.”
Warren agrees, adding, “I think it’s about your parasympathetic system, the rest and digest state. This is the time when your body heals, regenerates and assimilates nutrients. If you don’t get enough rest or downtime, you will put your system out of whack, and that’s when things fall apart. Then the obvious: sugar, alcohol, and sleep. We can’t expect to all be biohackers, but small micro changes like water and a nutritious meal in the day can make a world of difference.”
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