While a new year might technically begin in January, autumn always feels like the time for fresh starts. Hence the annual urge to lop off your locks come September hair is rumoured to hold onto memories and old energies, after all. And, amid dark and stormy weather, a big chop often lightens things up, literally and figuratively. Need proof? Look no further than Zendaya’s recent pixie cut.
Debuting two days ago at a Prada Paradoxe pop-up in New York, hairstylist – and mastermind behind the cut – Coree Moreno emphasised Zendaya’s natural curls, giving the whole thing a playful, romantic feel. But for the Emmy Awards last night, Moreno gave it a spiky tousled spin, à la '90s Halle Berry. Talk about a versatile hairstyle! But before you pull out your kitchen scissors and get to hacking, hairstylist Sam McKnight MBE, contributing British beauty editor and pioneer of Princess Diana’s infamous crop, cautions that an easy breezy pixie isn’t as easy or breezy as it might appear.
“You would imagine it’s low maintenance,” he laughs. “But it’s not necessarily so. Yes, there’ll be less time in the shower, but there’ll be more time trimming.” The trimming, he adds, is key: “The hardest bit of maintenance is the trims every two to three weeks. Otherwise, it will start to get big and round.” So, budget (your finances and time) accordingly.
For those ready, willing, and able to commit to the gamine look, rejoice. Below, McKnight explains how to get Zendaya’s divine hair at home.
Start with a clean scalp
For McKnight, working with dirty hair is off the table. “I’m a great believer in keeping your scalp clean. You could start with day old hair, maybe two if you’re lucky. But the problem with dirty hair is not your hair; it's your scalp. If your scalp gets clogged with oils, products, and dirt, it’s going to have an effect on your hair. Especially for people who suffer from hair loss. [So] what I recommend is making sure the scalp’s clean. Your scalp is skin. You’re not going to leave your skin for three days,” he says. For those in the market for a scalp-safe shampoo, he recommends either the Light Cleanse, Cool Girl Volume, or Rich Cleansing shampoos from his eponymous haircare line Hair by Sam McKnight, depending on your hair texture.
Hair By Sam McKnight Light Cleanse Shampoo
Hair By Sam McKnight Rich Cleanse Shampoo
Living Proof Detox Clarifying Shampoo
Apply product (but don’t glop it on)
“I think that the pixie cut like this is nice when it’s close to the head – you don’t want it to be too round or puffy. You probably need to give it a bit of a defluff,” McKnight says. Products depend on your texture; curls will need more moisture, while finer hair may need a touch of volumising. From his line, he suggests the Dress to Kill finishing cream, which “gives hair a nice piecey texture”, the Perfect Mess paste which “gives a bit of volume”, and even a touch of the Self Control Styling Gel “just to lift up the pieceiness a bit, or you can use gel to slick it down and keep it small”. Less is more, he explains: “I’d stay away from the heavy volumisers because you need to keep it small, and I don’t think you should overproduct it. You should have that feeling of being quite natural.”
Air dry
Save your hair from heat damage and let it air dry. The products should do most of the heavy lifting, though McKnight stresses that the perfect post-shower concoction requires a bit of playing around. “Do your makeup while you have either one of those three products, or a couple of them mixed together. Make your own cocktail and see what’s right for the texture of your hair.”
Hair by Sam McKnight Dressed to Kill Cream
Hair by Sam McKnight Self Control Gel
- Why it’s -approved: There are not one, not two, but 10 oils in this serum-like mask, which cushions hair with lightweight nourishment. Among them is amla oil: a haircare hero which not only promotes growth but also preserves your hair colour thanks to its antioxidant properties and high vitamin C content. Doubling as a heat protectant, this mask is light enough to keep on hair and penetrates deeply to fortify strands from within. A great, grease-free find.
- Key ingredients: Actipower complex, olive extract, castor oil
Add the finishing touches
For an edgy, windswept look like Zendaya’s at the Emmys, McKnight says to go in with heat styling for final touches, depending on how the hair air dries. “If you need a little bit of spikiness or if your hair is really wavy, you can use some very small straighteners. I mean mini, mini, mini straighteners to just flick the ends up here and there, just to get those little spiky pieces that you see in Zendaya’s. You don’t need to do it all over your head – just half a dozen pieces, strategically placed,” he instructs.
And finally… don’t be afraid to experiment
“Just don’t overthink it,” McKnight stresses. And if all else fails, consult a pro familiar with your hair – or take matters into your own hands. “Always ask your hairdresser what the right texture product is for you, and experiment. Go online – there’s loads out there to look at. And find the right thing. What’s the worst that can happen? If it doesn’t work, you wash it.” Words to live by.
