Hair washing is a normal, even mundane part of any haircare regime, especially if you have your wash day routine on lock. But if you have long hair, it might be an intentional part your hair routine, too.
If you’re one of those people who aspires to a mane that is as long and lustrous as possible, then no doubt you’ve contemplated different ways to encourage rapid growth – from old wives tales about cutting it during a full moon, to marginally more sensible lore about brushing 100 times a day.
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Experts are clear though, that washing your hair more or less than the average will not make it grown faster. Akta Bavalia, trichologist and hair loss expert for Nanogen explains. “Hair can’t be made to grow quicker simply by washing it more frequently,” she says. “The rate our hair grows is largely determined by factors such as genetics, age and our individual hair cycle. Sometimes, if hair growth has previously been affected by things like nutritional deficiencies or illness and then returns to its normal rate, it can seem as though it’s suddenly growing faster.”
What does “normal” hair growth look like?
To understand how, and why, hair grows, it can help to understand what growth looks like for most people. On average hair grows at around half an inch per month, although it’s important to point out that this varies from person to person and is dependent on other factors. “We live in a world where we expect quick results, but there really is no overnight fix when it comes to hair growth. There isn’t a product, oil or scalp hack that can suddenly make your hair grow twice as fast,” says Bavalia.
According to Dr Aamna Adel, consultant dermatologist and founder of hair care brand Rhute, slow growth could be down to several different things. “It can be triggered by nutritional deficiencies such as low iron (ferritin) or vitamin D, thyroid dysfunction, hormonal shifts like the postpartum period or menopause, physical or emotional stress that pushes follicles into the resting phase, rapid weight loss, and certain medical conditions,” she says.
Patience and consistency are what really matters when it comes to growing out your hair. “Patience really is essential with hair, because it grows slowly, at around a centimetre a month, and the growth cycle is slow to respond,” adds Adel. “As a general guide, you’d need to give any treatment at least three to six months of consistent use before fairly judging whether it’s working, and often longer to see the full benefit.”
Does washing matter at all?
Absolutely. Although washing it more often won’t make your hair grow any faster, washing it properly or regularly enough can hinder growth in the long-term thanks to sweat, oil and product build-up, which can lead to clogged follicles. “Regular washing is still important. Keeping the scalp clean and healthy helps create the best possible environment for the follicles and growing hairs, so I wouldn’t recommend avoiding washing to make your hair grow,” says Bavalia.
How often should you wash your hair?
“It depends on your scalp and hair type and any conditions you may have,” explains Bavalia. “If you have a very oily scalp or are prone to flaking, I recommend washing every one to two days depending on the severity. Someone with a drier scalp may find they need to wash less frequently.” That said, Bavalia is keen to point out that hair and lifestyle also matter. If you have bleached or colour-treated hair you may choose not to wash your hair as often to prevent colour fade. Likewise, if you have naturally textured curly or coily hair and are wearing protective styles, your hair washing days might be spaced further apart.
Can shampoo actually impact hair growth?
While shampoo alone won’t promote hair growth, it is an important part of a good haircare and scalp care routine. “Shampoo has a relatively short contact time with the scalp, so its primary role is to cleanse the scalp and help maintain a healthy environment for the hair and follicles,” says Bavalia.
Adel agrees. “I’d see it as a useful, supportive step within a wider haircare routine, rather than something expected to stimulate hair growth, reduce hair loss or directly treat thinning on its own.” That doesn’t mean that formulation doesn’t come into it. Rather than grab whatever is on hand, treat your hair wash regime like your skincare one, and assess what your hair really needs. Whether that’s more moisture, volume or shine, finding the right shampoo for you will keep your scalp healthy and ultimately lead to improved health and growth. “The best approach is usually pairing a supportive shampoo with a leave-on treatment that stays on the scalp and does more,” adds Adel.
What will make hair grow faster?
As boring as it might sound, get the basics right and the rest will follow. Eating a balanced diet of whole foods and ensuring you get enough protein and key nutrients like iron, zinc, B vitamins and vitamin D is key. Certain supplements like biotin can be useful if you’re looking for a more intensive approach, but diet should always come first
Keeping your scalp in good condition is another essential element of hair growth. “We spend so much time looking after the hair fibre but often completely neglect the skin it grows from,’ says Bavalia. “Regular cleansing and managing persistent flaking, inflammation, itching or other scalp conditions helps maintain a healthy environment for the hair follicles. I’d also encourage people to start thinking about scalp care preventatively, rather than only paying attention to it once a problem develops.”
The best products to encourage healthy hair, and growth
- Salicylic acid, chamomile, aloe vera
- When to use: Daily or as required
Designed to support hair that’s thinning, this shampoo ensures both scalp and strands are thoroughly cleansed and balanced to ensure optimum growth. As well as adding volume to boost the appearance of thickness, it’s anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory to help keep things on an even keel.
Living Proof Detox Clarifying Shampoo
- Activated charcoal, naturally derived chelating agent
- When to use: Daily or as required
A scalp that’s clogged with impurities or excess sebum will hinder good hair growth. This contains activated charcoal to absorb over production of oil as well as a chelating agent to reduce traces of heavy metal build up causes by washing hair in hard water. Because it removes everything that can cause hair to look dull, colour-treated hair should find vibrancy improves, too.
Philip Kingsley Density Stimulating Scalp Mask
- : Piroctone olamine, PCA, caffeine, allantoin, olive oil, menthol, vitamin E
- When to use: Once a week in place of your usual conditioner
Use this intensive mask once a week to energise your scalp and promote denser strands. As well as adding shine, hydration and bounce, it regulates oil production, calms the scalp, rebalances the unique mix of bacteria and actively prevents further hair loss.
Rhute Density + Repair Hair Growth Scalp Serum
- Caffeine, bioactive peptides, stem cell extracts, niacinamide
- When to use: On wet or dry hair, daily for three months
A hardworking scalp serum is an excellent partner to a good shampoo and conditioner routine. This one is designed to reinforce the scalp’s skin barrier to ensure it’s well balanced and functioning as it should. That means hydration and follicle strength is improved, irritation and shedding are reduced and healthy growth is encouraged.
The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Treatment
- When to use: Before shampooing, once to twice a week
If you use a lot of product, or suffer from an itchy or excessively oily scalp, this pre-wash treatment can help. It’s formulated with salicylic acid which works to gently unclog pores without leaving the scalp stripped or imbalanced, while other ingredients are on hand to improve hydration and reduce redness.
Hair + Me The Capsules for Hair Growth
- Dependent on personalised prescription
- When to use: One capsule, daily
If hair thinning or loss is inhibiting growth, it might be time to seek out a more bespoke solution. This excellent online service offers a personalised service that helps you get to the root of the problem, whether it’s reducing shedding or encouraging growth. While each prescription is available in a topical formula, if your wash and care routine already feels too long, the capsules are a good alternative.