Earlier this week, standing in front of my wardrobe before heading out into a literal thunderstorm for pre-work Pilates, I found myself reconsidering my commitment to the statement coat. With the rain thrashing against the windows, the wall of faux fur and vintage suede numbers had me cursing all those late nights spent lowballing sellers on Vinted. Why couldn’t I, like my Dolomites-trekking friends, own a single piece of practical outerwear? Resigned to my soggy, shivering fate, I began fantasising about swiping one of the heavy-duty utility jackets that my more sensible classmates would undoubtedly bring along.
Fortunately, the runways have been making a compelling case for something between geography-teacher practicality and high fashion. At Max Mara, creative director Ian Griffiths has been championing what he calls “utility luxe”, with last season’s collection offering deep pockets, generous proportions and utilitarian trims, all in the service of his imagined “countrywoman heading downtown”. Hermès, meanwhile, stayed true to its horse-girl sensibilities, giving zipped-up-to-there jackets a luxurious spin in creamy nylons. Best of all was Saint Laurent, where Anthony Vaccarello’s gilded, 24-karat gold utility jackets proved that functionality needn’t come at the expense of glamour.
Max Mara spring/summer 2027.
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Hermès spring/summer 2027.
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If you couldn’t already tell, I’ve had my qualms about this sort of outerwear in the past. (Sorry, but if you work in finance, there’s really no need to LARP as Lord of the Manor in a multi-pocketed Barbour while bustling out of Bank station every morning.) But cast your eye over the crowds lingering outside the latest small-plates hotspot and you’ll see that the utility jacket has shaken off its country-bumpkin associations. So, while I’ll always have a soft spot for a suede duster or a disintegrating opera coat, I’m beginning to see the appeal of a jacket built to withstand the elements. After all, there’s only so much sartorial satisfaction to be found in looking like a soggy, shivering mess for six months of the year.