Last night, Keira Knightley made her return to the West End for the first time in 15 years, playing Christa-Maria Sieland in Robert Icke’s adaptation of the Oscar-winning The Lives of Others at the Adelphi Theatre. Which, of course, called for something special on the red carpet: a cropped charcoal knit and crystal-embellished tulle skirt from Erdem’s spring/summer 2027 collection.

Knightley is just the latest A-lister to fall for that particular offering, for which Erdem Moralıoğlu took inspiration from Barbette, the gender-bending trapeze artist who wowed audiences in the 1920s and ’30s. Drawing on Man Ray’s portraits of the performer, the designer translated Barbette’s theatrical wardrobe into glittering leotards, feather-trimmed dresses and lingerie-inspired looks, which have since found favour among today’s most photogenic performers, including Sienna Miller, Rosalía and Troye Sivan.

“It was almost like he wasn’t trying to be a woman or a man,” said Moralıoğlu of his chosen muse. “It was truly about this kind of androgyny, and so [this season] was about exploring the most feminine of feminine underwear, bras, pants, and other things that just felt so feminine, and then layering it with something that felt very, very masculine.” You could argue that Knightley’s look played on a similar duality: business up top, party down below.