Korean skincare’s preeminence is hard to dispute, and as a beauty editor with over a decade of experience, I’m not about to try. Take K-beauty sunscreens, for instance – there’s something exceptional about both the texture and performance: the effortless slip, the undetectable finish. It’s this attention to detail that so often puts Korean products leagues ahead of their British, French and American counterparts.
But while Korean skincare is undeniably impressive, skyrocketing interest in it in recent years has seen skincare routines become increasingly convoluted, with experts beginning to see the consequences of 12- or even 15-step routines in clinic. “The famous ‘multi-step Korean skincare routine’ was largely a Western marketing idea,” reveals Dr Christine Hall, a Korean skincare expert, GP and aesthetic doctor at Taktouk Clinic. “Rich layers, multiple actives… More isn’t necessarily better, and it can leave the skin irritated or prone to breakouts.”
It’s not about abandoning Korean skincare altogether, rather taking a more authentic approach, says Dr Hall – one rooted in Korean beauty philosophies, not Western interpretations. With that in mind, here are seven new, improved Korean skincare rules that K-beauty experts and enthusiasts are following right now.
Out: Layering for the sake of layering
If you’ve fallen for the marketing hype of layering multiple essences, serums and moisturisers, only to find your skin becoming clogged, dull and greasy, aesthetic doctor Dr Brendan Khong suggests stripping it right back. In fact, his K-beauty go-tos are refreshingly simple. “More educated consumers are now asking, ‘What is this actually doing?’ rather than, ‘How many steps?’ For me, a gentle cleanser, targeted serum, barrier repair moisturiser and SPF are non-negotiable, rather than layering for the sake of layering,” says Dr Khong.
A targeted serum will do much of the heavy lifting. Someone with acne-prone skin, for example, will benefit from a serum with 2% salicylic acid to unclog pores and smooth texture. A serum with niacinamide as the star ingredient helps to regulate excess sebum in those with oily skin. Then there’s retinol, or higher strength retin, which is well suited to mature skin, improving texture and boosting collagen production over time. If you’re using targeted ingredients like these, keeping the rest of your skincare routine simple and gentle is key.
Glass skin – skin so smooth it almost looks reflective – long ago entered beauty vernacular, but Dr Khong says that the luminous optical effect often encouraged over-exfoliating and over-layering – both of which can cause irritation. “The conversation has moved to skin health,” says Dr Khong. “This includes a better barrier function,” essentially boosting the resilience of the outermost layer of skin, so that it locks in moisture and keeps out bacteria, “as well as reducing inflammation, preventing sun damage and encouraging collagen preservation.” He continues: “In Korea this sits alongside the idea of ‘slow ageing’, where the goal is to protect the skin you have rather than chase a filter. The glow is now a result of healthy skin, rather than simply looking lacquered.”
Your first port of call is a gentle cleanser such as Sulwhasoo Gentle Cleansing Foam or Aestura Atobarrier365 Foaming Cleanser, both of which lift away make-up, sunscreen and oil without stripping the skin. A ceramide-rich moisturiser is also a great addition to any skincare routine, says Dr Khong, as ceramides – found naturally in the skin – act like glue between skin cells, helping to keep the barrier intact. He recommends Sulwhasoo’s Concentrated Ginseng Rejuvenating Cream, as well as a British beauty desk favourite, Aestura Atobarrier365.
Finally, prevent over-exfoliation by alternating high-strength retinoids and exfoliants, instead of applying them together. And if your skin feels sore or sensitive, take a step back and give it time to heal.
Gone are the days of lengthy, multi-step routines, says Dr Hall. “Hybrid Korean products like serum-toners and make-up with skincare benefits are good examples of where you can reduce your routine,” she says. Laneige’s Cream Skin Cerapeptide Mist is a fine, hydrating spray that packs some heavy-duty moisturising ingredients like ceramides, glycerin and squalane, so you can skip your essence and serum steps. Laneige’s Juice Pop Box Lip Tint boasts a slick of rich pigment suspended in a moisturising and hydrating base thanks to ceramides and hyaluronic acid. Then there’s Erborian’s CC Créme, which combines redness-reducing centella asiatica, hydrating hyaluronic acid and SPF 50 with encapsulated pigments that burst on contact with the skin to even out skin tone.
Laneige JuicePop Box Lip Tint Hydrating Lip Tint
Out: Guessing how much product to apply
In: Packaging that measures the right amount
“Korea is responsible for many smart packaging trends,” says Dr Hall. She highlights the “pencil sharpener” style balm cleansers (think Dr Althea’s Pure Grinding Cleansing Balm) that twist up to deliver just the right amount of cleanser required to dissolve make-up, sunscreen and oil. Then there are lip balm pots in the shape of a doughnut, so that the applicator slots neatly into the middle, says Dr Hall. “These are simple things that have purpose,” she adds, taking the guesswork out of how much product is needed. This is especially useful when applying sunscreen. Ultra Violette, for example, has taken inspiration from K-beauty products with its new press-to-dispense Unblock Screen SPF 50, so that you’ll never unknowingly skimp on SPF.
Dr. Althea
Korea is the aesthetic treatment capital of the world, says Dr Hall, adding that it was only a matter of time before the sort of high-tech ingredients typically delivered by injection made their way into topical skincare products. “PDRN was the big one this year, but poly-D,L-lactic acid, aka PDLLA – a substance that stimulates collagen – is to come,” says Dr Hall. When injected into the skin, PDLLA activates fibroblasts, which are responsible for producing collagen, giving skin its structure and elasticity. “PDLLA won’t have the same result when applied topically,” cautions Dr Hall, “but it is able to hydrate and smooth the skin.” So it’s worth keeping an eye out for if dryness and dehydration are your skincare bugbears.
Besides PDLLA, Dr Hall points to micro spicules as ingredients to watch. “These are tiny, microscopic silica-derived needle shaped structures in skincare products like serums and moisturisers, and they have been shown to increase the absorption of ingredients into the skin,” says Dr Hall. Otherwise known as “liquid microneedling”, spicules are typically combined with skin-strengthening peptides and soothing cica (aka centella asiatica), says Dr Hall. Happily, they’re virtually undetectable on the skin and don’t cause bleeding, downtime or significant skin trauma, unlike in-clinic microneedling procedures.
Try Medicube’s One Day Exosome Shot Pore Ampoule 7500, with collagen-boosting exosomes and peptides, oil-minimising niacinamide and exfoliating alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids alongside spicules. Erborian’s Ginseng Micro Shot Serum also features spicules in combination with ginseng, known to kickstart collagen and elastin production and provide antioxidant protection against environmental aggressors like pollution.
Ginseng Micro Shot Starter 0.1% Serum
One Day Exosome Shot Pore Ampoule 7500
Out: Getting swept up in the hype
From PDRN to exosomes, injectable ingredients can provide genuine results, but Dr Khong encourages his patients to be sceptical of them in topical skincare products, as there’s only so much they can do. “PDRN, for example, is a large molecule, so how much reaches the dermis is debatable,” says Dr Khong, who treats it as a supportive, soothing ingredient rather than a replacement for in-clinic treatments. Then there are exosomes – tiny particles that help skin cells communicate and work effectively. “The biology is fascinating, but standardisation, sourcing and regulation are still catching up,” says Dr Khong. Instead of getting caught up in bold claims, he suggests looking to tried and tested ingredients that have lots of research behind them. “Proven and quietly effective ingredients include ceramides, peptides, centella asiatica for redness, niacinamide, tranexamic acid and retinoids,” he says. “They may not be glamorous, but they have the strongest evidence behind them.”
Lastly, if Dr Khong could only use one skincare product, it would be sunscreen. “UV exposure is responsible for most visible skin ageing and pigmentation, and no serum can undo daily unprotected exposure,” he says. Korean sunscreens are especially impressive. “They’re cosmetically elegant,” says Dr Khong. “Think lightweight, no white cast and comfortable under make-up. That matters, because the best sunscreen is the one people actually wear every day.” The ones he recommends the most are Laneige’s Water Bank UV Barrier Sunscreen SPF50+, Innisfree Daily UV Defense Sunscreen SPF50, and Sulwhasoo UV Daily Essential Sunscreen SPF50.
