When it comes to nails, I consider myself something of a maximalist. As soon as I sit in my manicurist’s chair, the chrome, cat-eye and glitter-packed polishes call to me, and this autumn, I’m naturally gravitating towards more brooding hues of burgundy and merlot. But the celebrity set has different ideas.

Lately, Instagram is awash with milky, gauzy, barely-there manicures that allow the natural free edge to peek through and reveal all the subtle irregularities of the nails, rather than covering them up entirely. It’s a trend we’re calling “lucent” nails – ultra-shiny and, of course, semi-sheer. LA-based nail artist Betina R. Goldstein has recently created beautifully glossy lucent sets for both Mia Goth and Alexa Demie, using a considered mix of Chanel nail polish: three parts Le Gel Top Coat with three parts Le Vernis in Ballerina, plus a drop of Le Vernis in Particuliére and another slick of gel top coat for shine.

What are lucent nails and why are they everywhere?

Session manicurist Ami Streets is well-versed in lucent manicures, having created them on her celebrity clients and for models during fashion week, where nails need to be polished while allowing the clothes and accessories to take centre stage. “Lucent nails are all about a soft-focus, light-catching finish for nails that look naturally healthy, with a delicate wash of milky colour and a glass-like sheen,” says Streets. “Think of your natural nail, but subtly perfected, more luminous, a little more even-toned and beautifully glossy – without looking as though you’re wearing an opaque block of colour.”

For Streets, the appeal lies in the wider shift towards understated beauty: “Lucent nails sit alongside the skin-first approach to make-up,” she says, adding, “They enhance and improve what you already have rather than covering it up, and there’s something refreshing about a manicure that feels effortless and considered.”

How do you achieve lucent nails?

Achieving lucent nails starts with the appropriate prep, says Streets. “Simply applying a milky top coat over natural nails can give you a lovely result,” she explains, “but for that really seamless, luminous finish I’d approach it as a manicure rather than just a final coat of colour.” The natural nail, adds Streets, is very much part of the finished look. It starts with cuticle removal, so consider a gentle, liquid version like Manucurist Cuticle Remover, which softens rough skin and makes light work of pushing back cuticles. Neat edges and a smooth surface are also important. “If you have pronounced ridges, light buffing – or buying a ridge-filling base coat – can help create a more even canvas,” says Streets. As for shape, she favours soft ovals, rounded or a squoval silhouettes.

With the prep out of the way, it’s time to consider your nail polish. Streets suggests looking for a translucent milky pink, soft ivory or neutral nude that enhances the natural colour of your nails. “One coat will give a very subtle veil, while two thin coats usually create that characteristic cloudy, softly diffused effect, allowing light to pass through the colour – this is what gives lucent nails their depth and luminosity,” she adds.

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Just allow each coat to dry before applying the next and always wipe the excess polish from one side of the brush before applying it, advises Streets. She favours the three-stroke painting method for a seamless finish: “Start down the centre of the nail, then apply one stroke on either side, using smooth, controlled movements and as close to the base of the nail as you can.” And don’t be afraid to customise your colour. “Consider layering different nude shades to create the exact colour and depth you love,” says Streets. “If a milky polish looks too white, for example, try a single coat layered with a sheer pink. This can also give a more dimensional finish to your manicure.”

The final step is hydration. Streets recommends finishing with a generous dose of cuticle oil on each nail, and layering on some hand cream. “This will make a huge difference to the overall appearance of a minimalist manicure, where every detail is visible,” she explains.

Below, even more lucent nails inspiration to take to your manicurist.