I’m proud to say that my hair is one of my greatest features. Being Indian, it’s always been thick (something I know many would be envious of) but, to be honest, it hasn’t looked particularly healthy in recent years. And because of that, it hasn’t looked that stylish, either. So preoccupied with its lack of condition and aesthetic, I found myself staring enviously at people’s hair on a recent visit to Japan. I loved the precision and the style of how the women in Tokyo wore their hair, and wanted something similar for myself. Little did I know that it would change how I felt about my own forever.
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Four years ago, I shaved off all of my hair in search of a “new look”. It grew back quickly, but the awkward in-between phase sent me into a spiral of experimentation in an attempt to make my unfortunate mullet look somewhat chic. Eventually, the cycle of cutting, colouring and heat damage caught up with me and I was left with broken, puffy hair.
After doing a little research, I discovered the secret to the hair I so envied: Japanese permanent hair straightening. The hairstylist at a salon in Shibuya told me it was a common treatment that would work well for my hair type. Thanks to a well-timed offer, the treatment would cost just over £100 and included a cut. The straightening alone made up about £86 (¥18,700) of the final price. It seemed like a reasonable investment for the hair I so craved.
What is Japanese permanent straightening?
Hiro Kudo, a Japan-born hair specialist and creative director at Kiku Salon, describes Japanese straightening as a specialised chemical treatment that “alters and restructures the hair bonds, resulting in an exceptionally sleek, permanent finish.” This is different to keratin treatments, which do not break the internal bonds in your hair and are temporarily effective before wearing off. A Japanese permanent straightening treatment is considered “permanent”, but only on the hair that’s been treated. As your natural hair grows, the new roots remain untreated, which is why touch-ups are generally recommended every six to 12 months.
The process
I was told the whole treatment would take four hours. It began with a clarifying shampoo before a strong-smelling chemical solution was applied and left to work. Mine stayed on for around 45 minutes before being washed out. My hair was then blow-dried and painstakingly straightened in tiny sections with a ceramic flat iron. Finally, a neutralising solution was applied to lock the hair into its new shape before a final wash, quick cut and blow-dry.
Yes, the process was long, but when I saw my hair, the strands were pin-straight with a healthy reflective shine. I couldn’t stop running my hands through it. There was one catch, though. I had to keep my entire head dry and avoid bending the hair in any way for 72 hours. Even tucking it behind my ears could leave a kink while the new bonds set.
Feeling cautious, I waited four days before washing my hair and revealing the results. When I rinsed out my conditioner, the first thing I noticed was how slippery the strands felt. I rough-dried it as I normally would, expecting to see fluff and frizz that needed going over with a pair of straighteners. Instead, it dried straight and glossy, as if I had just had a professional blow-dry. I couldn’t quite believe the hair was mine. It had that almost artificial gloss you usually only see in hair adverts.
A month on, I’m still getting compliments from friends and strangers about how shiny my hair looks. The best part? My styling time has been drastically cut down. I’m saving hours every week and no longer dread hair-wash days because everything sits just right after a quick blast with a hairdryer. For me, the appeal isn’t really about having super-straight hair. It’s about that healthy shine, which eluded me for years.
How I care for my hair now
My current routine consists of a wash and weekly hair oiling, something I’ve done since childhood. I use Aveeno’s apple cider vinegar-infused shampoo to help avoid product build-up, alongside Indē Wild Champi Hair Oil and Fable & Mane’s soothing scalp serum, as I have a sensitive scalp.
Aveeno Haircare Clarify & Shine+ Apple Cider Vinegar Shampoo
Indē Wild Champi Hair Oil
Fable & Mane Sahascalp Amla Soothing Serum
Of course, Japanese straightening isn’t suitable for everyone. Hiro warns that people with very fine or fragile hair, heavily bleached or highlighted hair, and those with afro or tightly coiled hair should avoid the treatment. This, he says, is because applying the chemicals to already compromised or fragile hair can cause serious and long-lasting damage. A thorough consultation with a qualified stylist is essential.
Tokyo might be where I discovered it, you don’t need to fly across the world to get it. Japanese straightening is available at London salons such as Taylor Taylor, where a treatment for my hair type starts from around £550. There are also multiple specialist Japanese salons, including Hayato Salon, Shunji and My Snug Room.
If you’re someone who spends hours blow-drying, straightening and styling your hair to get it smooth, Japanese straightening will give you back hours of your life. And if you’ve ever wanted an excuse to visit Japan, this is as good a reason as any.