The shift from summer into autumn feels notable every year, but perhaps never more so than after a long, hot summer. There comes a point when we’re starting to pack our sandals away, the knitwear comes out, and the prospect of a slightly slower pace is welcome. During this time, fragrance can be one of the easiest – and most satisfying – ways to mark that change.
If summer naturally lends itself to sparkling citrus, sun-warmed coconut and juicy, uplifting notes, early autumn is a great time to switch to something a little more grounded. Not necessarily heavier or sweeter, but softer, greener and more textured: the perfume equivalent of crisp mornings, new stationery and pulling on a heavier jacket for the first time in months. There’s something about September’s ingrained back-to-school energy that makes even adulthood feel like an opportunity for a reset.
And while caramel, pumpkin and syrupy gourmands have their place, this isn’t quite the moment for full autumnal cliché. Instead, the scents we’re drawn to now occupy that lovely in-between liminal space: fresh enough for the last warm days, but with enough depth to carry you into cooler evenings. Think aromatic teas, soft woods, green fig, salt and bergamot – notes that quietly signal the change of season without shouting pumpkin spice latte. Consider these the fragrances for early autumn and its particular kind of fresh-start energy…
Sea Salt & Bergamot Cologne
Why it’s -approved: If you’re not quite ready to relinquish summer, start here. Inspired by a plunge into the Celtic Sea, Jo Malone London’s latest cologne takes the freshness we associate with a summer fragrance and makes it altogether more bracing. Bergamot provides the initial citrus hit, but it’s the mineral, almost crystalline saltiness that gives the scent its character, before driftwood and moss bring a subtle woody warmth. Think windswept coastal walk rather than sun lounger: fresh, crisp and particularly good on those autumnal days when the weather can’t quite make up its mind.
Why it’s -approved: There’s something inherently autumnal about incense, but Shiu 25 stops well short of the smoky, church-like fragrances you might associate with the note. Created as Le Labo’s Beijing City Exclusive and available worldwide for a limited time in September, it’s built around shiu – derived from the ho tree – with soft, powdery iris, frankincense and warm woods. The result is soft and comforting rather than heavy: dry, woody and gently smoky, with exactly the kind of back-to-school energy that seems to arrive every September.
Why it’s -approved: For the point in the year when you finally want your perfume to have a little more presence, consider Suede Osmanthus. Osmanthus has a naturally floral, fruity scent reminiscent of ripe apricots, which here is set against soft suede and the darker woodiness of oud. It feels polished and grown-up rather than overtly cosy – the fragrance equivalent of swapping summer linens for soft suede and cashmere.
Why it’s -approved: Green, woody and fresh, this Jil Sander fragrance really does bottle that back-to-school energy. Built around just three natural ingredients – shiso leaf, Australian sandalwood and key lime – it smells clean and green, thanks to the freshly crushed-leaf quality of shiso and uplifting lime, while sandalwood provides the quiet, grounding warmth of slower autumnal evenings.
Balliamo - Eau de Parfum
Why it’s -approved: Fig is one of those notes that makes perfect sense in September: still green and sun-warmed, but with an earthiness that hints at the season ahead. In Balliamo, Italian bergamot and mandarin bring a juicy citrus brightness, while fig gives way to the warmer, resinous depth of myrrh and amber. Smooth and sensual, it’s the kind of fragrance that works just as well on an unexpectedly warm afternoon as it does once the sun goes down and temperatures dip.
Why it’s -approved: There’s something grounding about the dry, aromatic scent of black tea, and Bvlgari’s Thé Impérial captures it beautifully while still keeping things fresh. Sri Lankan black tea brings depth and a subtle tannic quality – think the slightly bitter scent of freshly brewed tea – while vibrant Italian citrus keeps things bright and clean. Originally created as the signature scent of Bvlgari Hotels & Resorts, it’s the perfect transitional scent for early autumn: sophisticated and grounding, but still fresh enough for those lingering warm days.
The Nue Co.
Why it’s -approved: For those who crave the comfort of a gourmand as temperatures dip, but not the accompanying sugar rush, First Milk is a perfect compromise. Almond milk and French vanilla give it a soft, creamy quality, while pink pepper adds a little brightness and iris and dry, earthy woods stop it from becoming too sweet. Cosy without being cloying, it has the sort of warm, milky softness that makes you want to keep smelling your own wrist.
Why it’s -approved: Named after the distinctive smell of rain hitting dry earth, Petrichor feels particularly apt for those first damp, cool days of autumn. Earthy vetiver and frankincense give it a warm, woody depth, while bergamot brings a flash of citrus freshness that stops things from feeling too heavy. The result is clean, comforting and grounding – less crackling fires and cashmere blankets, more that unmistakable scent of the outdoors after a September downpour.
Why it’s -approved: If you like your autumn fragrances soft rather than smoky, M+ Champaca is an easy transition into the new season. Red champaca has a rich floral scent with hints of jasmine, orange blossom and tea, which is layered over the velvety, almost cedarwood-like warmth of Iso E Super. On the skin, it’s subtle, smooth and gently aromatic – a skin-hugging scent that seems to hover close to the body rather than announce itself across a room.
Why it’s Vogue-approved: If early autumn had a dress code, Iris Debonair would fit it perfectly. Lavender and powdery iris give it a crisp, polished quality, while violet leaf and fig bring something greener and juicier, with cardamom adding a subtle hint of spice. Bergamot keeps things bright enough for September’s lingering warmth, before soft woods emerge as it settles on the skin. It’s fresh and put-together, with just enough warmth to signal that summer is on its way out.