You’ll be forgiven for almost walking straight past Soraya, which looks from the outside like a subtle entrance to a shady private member’s club. But you don’t need a membership here, merely a friend who’s dedicated to getting a res at one of London’s hottest new openings.
Soraya is cool, sexy and, if we’re still allowed to use this word: chic. The dimly-lit space is ultra seductive, with glass chandeliers, draped burgundy curtains and candles just about everywhere.
From the same team behind Nina, Lagana, Zephyr and Bottarga, few places have built up as much buzz before opening quite like Soraya. Pushing out teasers onto every foodies’ TikTok, it was finally time for us to be fed for real, rather than through social media.
Whipped feta came roaring to life with the addition of hot shatta
The restaurant says it’s Persian-inspired, so purists should look away now, as there is most definitely houmous on the menu. If you’re ok with that, then start by ordering from the mezze section, where there is little room for error.
Each dish thoroughly delighted the senses. The panir sabzi provided a fresh and light introduction to a series of ultra flavoursome bites, with barrel-aged feta taking centre stage. Next, our pick of dips to mop up with house sourdough flatbread or a gluten-free option which got the nod of approval from the celiac of the group. We went for the kashk bademjan (smoked aubergine, whey and walnut dip) and a spicy whipped feta that came roaring to life with the addition of hot shatta. Alongside the arrival of a colourful plate of torshi (pickles), this was the moment everyone took out their phone to take a pic, though we can assure you that they tasted as good as they looked.
As for mains, it felt rude not to order the classic combination of lamb koobideh and chicken joojeh with rice and shirazi salad. The chicken was beautifully cooked and satisfied the grilled-meat lovers, but in the menu’s first misstep, the lamb kind of lacked the wow factor.
But the time it comes to dessert, we’re victims of our own gameplan - turns out trying as much of the mezze as possible means though the créme brulee cheesecake whispered in my ear to be ordered, I was far too stuffed. Which gives us an excellent reason to return.
The vibe A sexy spot for special occasions.
The food Persian-inspired and beautiful dishes that look as good as they taste.
The drink Unique takes on classic cocktails, such as the In-Between which incorporates pomegranate and cherry into the beloved Paloma.
Go in a big group. Their abundant menu calls for trying a little bit of everything, so order as much as possible and share it all.