There are very few times in one’s life when it is socially acceptable to wear a ballgown so large you may question if you can even fit through a doorway. In fact, if you’re not regularly on the Met Gala invite list, your wedding could be your only chance.
Not every bride wants to wear a dramatic wedding dress with a long train to walk down the aisle, of course, but we seeing more and more to-be-weds electing to wear this traditional silhouette. And after attending New York Bridal Fashion Week to preview the autumn/winter 2026 collections, it’s clear that designers are also going all in on the trend, too.
Clean, conservative, and accented with tulle, silk bows and lace appliqués, these gowns feel like a surprising pivot in bridal fashion, which has grown more avant-garde in recent years with the rise of the anti-bride. Some point to a sense of nostalgia among younger generations getting married. “The backyard wedding, tiered wedding cakes with vintage toppers, cigarettes at the after-party… It’s all very ’90s, and the return of the ballgown makes a ton of sense in that world,” says wedding planner Tory Smith.
Perhaps the ballgown wedding dress is a reflection of the current state of the world. Historically, hemlines get longer and silhouettes turn more traditional during times of economic recession and instability. Could the rise of religion among younger generations also be prompting the rise of more conservative styles?
Then, there are the brides who already dress boldly in their daily life (or on social media) and want their wedding to feel like a real standout moment. “Especially for those who are fashion chameleons on the daily, sometimes there’s a desire to strip everything back and be super timeless as a bride,” notes bridal stylist Carrie Goldberg.
Yet there is one major explanation behind this rise of the ballgown. While most brides in the past would choose one dress to wear from the ceremony to the end of the night, it’s become increasingly common to expand the wedding day wardrobe to two, three, or even four looks. Factoring in the additional garments worn to rehearsal dinners, welcome parties and day-after fêtes, brides have the opportunity to showcase their style with a number of ensembles. With all those opportunities to wear different looks, full gowns at ceremonies become a moment to lean into that traditional “bridal” look. “Fitted gowns feel quite accessible and appropriate for a number of occasions, whereas a ballgown often feels like a once-in-a-lifetime moment,” says bridal stylist Gabrielle Hurwitz.
Mark Ingram, owner of his namesake NYC bridal salon, says the ballgown has always been a favourite of his clients, who come to shop designs by Elie Saab, Mira Zwillinger and Ines di Santo. “Despite trends toward different shapes, they opt for the full bridal ‘princess’ moment that the gown provides,” Ingram says. He does note that many brides are choosing to purchase more body-skimming, boundary-pushing riffs on these traditional gowns. He elaborates: “I think the term ‘traditional’ has evolved from what it used to mean, but the foundations of what you think of when someone uses that term – a fuller skirt, a sleeve, a classic neckline and sophisticated fabrications such as lace satin or faille – are all definitely more predominant again.”
The designer’s own brand, which debuted its autumn/winter 2026 collection during bridal week, leans into this classic, traditional sensibility as well. “My exposure to fine tailoring as a child, my appreciation for Hollywood films growing up, idolising icons like Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly, and having a very chic mother and grandmother have had a profound effect on my aesthetic,” he says. “My designs truly reflect the style of fashion that I have always found the most influential, and I think every generation since has found a way to draw from those incredible years of fashion and reimagine their influence once again.”
For brides choosing luxury ballgowns over edgier pieces, construction is key. “In a minimal gown, the quality and construction need to be flawless – there’s nowhere to hide in a super clean shape,” Goldberg notes. Australian designer Elly Sofocli – who is also carried at Ingram’s salon – emphasises this in her designs with detailed inner corsetry and elevated fabrics. “Creating a clean ballgown is one of the more technically challenging exercises,” Sofocli says. “Without embellishment to distract the eye, every detail is exposed, from the quality and movement of the fabric to the precision of the internal construction and the refinement of the final silhouette. It’s this level of consideration that sets our gowns apart from what you might typically find on RTW racks. The beauty lies not simply in the silhouette, but in how the gown is engineered, how it holds its shape, how it moves, and how it sits on the body.” She adds, “There is a quiet complexity behind a seemingly simple design.”
Los Angeles-based salon Loho Bride is known as a go-to spot for fashion-forward brides on the West Coast. Owner Christy Baird also seen a rise in interest around ballgowns, yet believes they still work for that non-traditional bride as well. “As buyers, there’s always a balance between investing in exciting, directional pieces and understanding what our brides genuinely connect with,” Baird explains. “The appeal emerges when those two worlds meet, when a gown feels fresh and editorial, but still has an emotional impact when a bride puts it on.”
“Designers have really reimagined the aesthetic, making these silhouettes feel desirable to a bride who might previously have gravitated toward something more understated or unconventional,” she continues. “It’s not necessarily a return to traditional bridal, but rather a new appreciation for volume, sculptural shapes, and dramatic proportions. Brides aren’t necessarily looking to be more traditional; they’re looking to make more of a statement.”