• Why it’s -approved: If your skin is already feeling depleted, the last thing you want is a cleanser that feels like it’s stripping it of what’s left. Enriched with soothing ingredients like colloidal oatmeal, squalane and glycerin, consider this gentle cleanser your first step to restoring comfortable, cushioned skin. It’s also suitable for skin that’s easily irritated or suffers from eczema or acne.
• Product type: Cleanser
• When to use: AM and PM at the start of your routine

• Why it’s -approved: Salicylic acid is a wonder ingredient for busting blemishes, but it can cause dryness, so if you want to incorporate it into your routine, the COSRX cleanser works wonders because it’s gentle and doesn’t sit on the skin too long. As the first step in your routine, it removes dirt and grime from the day, acting as an effective tool in your acne-fighting arsenal. A little goes a long way, so the cleanser lasts a long time.

• Why it’s -approved: CeraVe’s blemish cleanser contains its signature ceramides, alongside hectorite clay to reduce sebum on the skin, 2 per cent salicylic acid to target dead cells and blackheads, and niacinamide for a healthy skin barrier.

• Why it’s -approved If you’re looking for the best face wash for acne prone skin, look to Medik8, whose Clarifying Foam cleanser contains a gentle combination of alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids to help exfoliate without stripping the skin. It’s also full of niacinamide, which helps calm and bolster the skin barrier, as well as tea tree oil to help prevent further breakouts.

• Why it’s -approved: This cleanser from cult brand SkinCeuticals was recommended by make-up artist Rachel Singer Clark. She applauds its assistance to acne-prone skin especially. As many as five AHAs are included in the ingredient line-up that buffs away at dullness-causing and pore-clogging residue like make-up, while nourishing the skin at the same time. Singer Clark is also a fan of the brand’s Glycolic Renewal Cleanser Gel, but she caveats, “only at night.”
• Key ingredients: Fruit acid blend and botanical extracts
• Who it’s for: Normal, combination or oily skin for gentle exfoliating benefits

• Why it’s -approved: Caroline Hirons has formulated a nourishing, luxurious first-step product. The skin expert’s Skin Rocks The Cream Cleanser nourishes and supports the skin barrier, while effectively removing dirt and grime from the day, including stubborn make-up. I used it down to the very last drop.
• The rich texture glides onto the skin, imparting the benefits of eight amino acids, squalane and jojoba seed oil, all of which combine to boost moisture. While the fragranced version has a very light aroma unlikely to trigger inflammation, the fragrance-free version may suit those with sensitivities, so much so that you can use it to dissolve mascara and eyeshadow without tearing up. You only need a small amount, too, so it is very long-lasting.

Why it’s -approved: Blemish-busting hero salicylic acid is at the heart of this cleansing formula from Murad. Created as the first step in your skincare and cleansing routine (if you like a double cleanse), it effectively removes make-up, sebum and buildup that could clog the pores and lead to further spots. To counteract the potentially harsh properties of the BHA salicylic acid, there is green tea extract that was selected to soothe the skin. I find I don’t need to use it everyday, a couple of times a week is more effective in my routine to prevent it from drying out my skin.

Why it’s -approved: It is challenging to find a cleanser that makes your skin actually feel clean without stripping but US-import Prequel has done exactly that with its Gleanser, a gel cleanser (hence the name). The dermatologist-backed brand calls on glycerin as the main ingredient, a humectant that hydrates the skin and balances pH – properties that are enhance when they are combined with arginine, oat extract and aloe vera as they are here. This cocktail of nourishment also means the formula is great for all skin types, even sensitive. Bonus points for the easy pump applicator.

Which ingredients should you look for in a cleanser for acne-prone skin and which should you avoid?

“I really like salicylic acid for acne-prone skin because it helps with congestion and excess oil inside the pores,” Dr Nuta says. “Benzoyl peroxide can also be very effective, particularly for inflammatory acne, and niacinamide is another ingredient I really like for supporting the skin barrier and helping with oil control.” Taking a minimal approach is the key, adds Bukobza. On the ingredients to avoid, he tells me, “More isn’t always better.” In fact, quite the opposite if your routine is already filled with active ingredients. “If you’re already using acids, retinoids or other acne treatments, you don’t necessarily need an aggressive cleanser on top. I would avoid harsh scrubs, heavily fragranced products and anything that leaves your skin feeling sore or stripped.”

How long does an acne-fighting cleanser need to remain on the skin to be effective?

A cleanser differs from more targeted treatments like a serum or moisturiser that will live on the skin for longer and can contain more potent ingredients. A cleanser, on the other hand, is washed off, but to maximise its benefits, Dr Nuta recommends leaving it on the skin for around 30 to 60 seconds “to give active ingredients enough time to penetrate the pores and kill bacteria. Leaving it on any longer will not clear acne faster and can easily strip your skin barrier, leading to severe irritation and dryness.” That being said, take a more cautious approach with ingredients like benzoyl peroxide. In this case, Bukobza stresses to “follow the instructions because it may need a short amount of time on the skin before rinsing.”

How can you tell if your cleanser is irritating or stripping your skin?

It is a common misconception that our skin should feel squeaky clean. “I tell my patients that the sign a cleanser is stripping your skin is that tight, stiff sensation right after you dry your face. This is clear proof that the formula has washed away your skin’s vital protective lipids,” explains Dr Nuta. “When you consistently use a cleanser that is too harsh, you tear down your skin barrier, which triggers visible flaking, redness, and a distinct burning or stinging sensation when you try to apply even your gentlest moisturiser.” It can also be counterproductive to blemish busting “as your skin desperately overproduces oil to compensate for the extreme dryness.” Rather than dry and tight, a good cleanser should leave your skin “soft, comfortable, and completely calm,” she says.

⁠How often should you use a cleanser for acne-prone skin?

Again, in this case, more is not always better. “Usually morning and evening is enough; if you’ve exercised or been sweating heavily, cleanse afterwards too. Washing your face constantly because you have acne or oily skin isn’t going to solve the problem. You can actually end up irritating the skin more,” advises Bukobza.

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