One of the most common skincare mistakes is expecting instant results – and then losing interest or inclination when they don’t materialise. It’s hardly surprising, given the age of modern technology and the fast-paced lifestyles we are all used to. We’ve become accustomed to instant gratification in almost every aspect of our lives, so why should skincare be any different?
The reality is, very few ingredients work with immediate effect, and when they do, the impact is often temporary, or becomes more noticeable and effective with consistent use. Whether I am speaking to experts about skincare tools, supplements or skincare products themselves, they all say the same thing: consistency is key.
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There is a lot of discussion in the beauty world about anti-ageing, but what has always piqued my curiosity is the idea of skincare that plays the long game. I’m talking about the products you can start using now, whatever stage of life you’re at, that your future self will thank you for. Rather than chasing overnight transformations, I’m interested in the habits and ingredients that quietly pay off over time. Which brings me to this very article.
“Prevention isn’t particularly glamorous,” says Dr Richard Devine, aesthetic doctor and founder of Devine Clinic, “but it’s much easier to protect good skin than try to correct years of accumulated damage later.” So with this in mind, SPF is a daily requirement to shield the skin from ageing and skin-damaging external aggressors. Dr Devine explains, “UV exposure is one of the biggest contributors to premature skin ageing, pigmentation and collagen breakdown, so daily broad-spectrum SPF is probably the most valuable preventative skincare habit you can have.” He adds too that antioxidants like vitamin C will “help defend against environmental stress,” while retinoids “support collagen and healthy skin renewal.”
Retinoids, in particular, are the ingredients with the most scientific research behind their effectiveness, with decades of studies. Consultant plastic surgeon Professor Ali Al-Hussaini says they have been shown to “improve fine lines, pigmentation, texture and collagen production over time,” while also spotlighting vitamin C for “antioxidant protection and pigmentation,” niacinamide and azelaic acid for “supporting the skin barrier, reducing inflammation and improving uneven tone.” He also wants to stress that unless you are wearing SPF every day, “none of these matter.”
Below, find the skincare formulas to incorporate into your routine now that your future self will thank you for. Plus, answers to practical questions like how long to use them for before judging their results, the signs if something is genuinely working, and the non-negotiables for each stage of life.
Daily sun protection is the single most important step in a preventative skincare routine to protect from premature ageing, pigmentation and UV damage. Dr Devine believes this is a foundation of a solid routine and recommends, “a broad-spectrum SPF 30 to 50 every morning.”
- Why it’s -approved: This SPF recently went viral for a reason. Offering high UV protection, anyone who’s tried it will know that it feels like a lightweight moisturiser that couldn’t be more comfortable to wear. Perfect for even the most sensitive skin, it’s a great example of excellent K-beauty formulating.
- “The viral TikTok product that earned Beauty of Joseon its cult status, the Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics SPF50+ is a lightweight daily skin protection cream with an advanced formula that makes it one of the most easily applied SPFs I’ve ever used. It doesn’t feel sticky or heavy and can be layered under make-up with no pilling. Rice extract, vitamins B, C and E and amino acids and minerals are the main ingredients that combine to create nourishing, glow-giving (but non-greasy) sun care that is easily absorbed.”
Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid Non-Perfumed Suncream SPF50+
- Why it’s -approved: We all know SPF shouldn’t be seasonal, as the sun’s rays can penetrate even on cloudy days. This SPF is a great option for your daily sunscreen as it contains an exclusive filter, Mexoryl400, which protects skin against ultra-long UVA rays, as well as shorter UVA and UVB rays. These longer rays are not only imperceptible and damaging, but they also represent 30 per cent of the UV rays that affect our skin all year round.
- Good to know: Great for oily, sensitive skin, this high-protection SPF has an invisible and non-greasy finish so won’t cause breakouts.
Why it’s -approved: This SPF was recommended by aesthetic nurse Teresa O’Nwere-Tan for the ease of application. “If I had to prioritise one product for long-term prevention, it would be sunscreen. A lightweight SPF that you genuinely enjoy wearing makes daily use much easier, and consistent sun protection is one of the most important things you can do to help prevent premature photoageing and pigmentation.” She is especially a fan, as there is no white cast.
While a slow and steady approach must be applied when introducing retinoids into a skincare routine, Professor Al-Hussaini stresses their importance in the PM: “If you’re looking for one ingredient with genuinely strong evidence behind it for long-term skin ageing, retinoids are hard to beat. Used consistently, they help stimulate collagen production and increase cell turnover, improving fine lines, skin texture, pigmentation and overall skin quality over time. The key is finding a formulation and strength that your skin tolerates and building up gradually. This isn’t an ingredient that gives you an overnight transformation, but with consistent use over months and years, it can make a significant difference to how the skin looks and ages.”
- Why it’s -approved: A beauty-editor favourite for good reason – this formula comes in a ladder strength system, meaning it’s easy to gradually increase strength over time. It harnesses retinaldehyde – a next-generation vitamin A derivative that converts more efficiently within the skin than traditional retinol – working up to 11x faster. The result? Impressive results while remaining gentle when introduced slowly.
- Key ingredients: Retinaldehyde, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, glycerin
- Why it’s -approved: Developed by skincare expert Caroline Hirons, this formula is best suited to experienced retinoid users looking to increase potency and maximise results. Balanced with blemish-fighting ingredients for clarity, plus nourishing ingredients to support tolerance, it offers a more advanced approach to collagen-supporting skincare.
- Key ingredients: Retinal, bakuchiol, salicylic acid, squalane, vitamin E
Why it’s -approved: Skin + Me takes a personalised approach to skincare. Before you have the opportunity to add its products to your basket, you must first complete a questionnaire detailing your concerns and information about your skin type. The final step is a selfie from three angles. Armed with the answers and your photo, the brand’s dermatologists create a customised formula to suit – all without expensive dermatologist fees. Then you wait. In the post, you receive your daily doser, in which one turn is all you need for full-face coverage.
While vitamin C is not the only antioxidant on the market, it is probably the one most commonly used to protect the skin against future damage. Other antioxidant ingredients include niacinamide, vitamin C, glutathione and ferulic acid.
Why it’s -approved: One of the brand’s latest innovations comes in the form of a potent vitamin C gel-serum that harnesses 20 per cent vitamin C and phyto exosomes to brighten and smooth the skin, while also combating premature signs of ageing. As vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, it’s also brilliant at protecting against environmental damage. Expect luminous, healthy skin in as little as a week – clinical results found that participants saw visibly reduced wrinkles, brighter skin and smoother texture in just seven days. “For an antioxidant, I like a well-formulated vitamin C that can be incorporated consistently into a morning routine,” explains aesthetic nurse O’Nwere-Tan, spotlighting this product. “Vitamin C helps provide antioxidant protection against environmental oxidative stress while also supporting brighter, more even-looking skin.”
Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum
- Why it’s -approved: A veritable superpowered serum, this beloved clarifying formula by Allies of Skin is gentle yet designed to improve the appearance of (deep breath): enlarged pores, blackheads, whiteheads, excess sebum, rough skin texture, uneven tone, dark spots, post-blemish hyperpigmentation and dullness. Due to its powerful actives, it’s important to always follow up with SPF during the daytime. It’s nevertheless incredibly calming (thanks to aloe and allantoin), hydrating and glow-boosting – serving as the perfect addition to your summer skincare routine when excess oil tends to leave one looking dull and clogged. Aesthetic nurse O’Nwere-Tan is a fan due to the winning combination of azelaic and kojic. She explains, “I particularly like azelaic acid because it is such a versatile ingredient. It can be useful for blemish-prone skin, redness and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This formula also incorporates kojic acid, making it a useful targeted option for uneven pigmentation.”
- Key ingredients: Aloe leaf juice, azelaic acid, radish root, kojic acid, bakuchiol, liquorice extract, allantoin
C E Ferulic Vitamin C Antioxidant Serum
- Key ingredients: 15 per cent l-ascorbic acid, 1 per cent alpha-tocopherol (a form of vitamin E), and 0.5 per cent ferulic acid
- : Smoothing, moisturising, firming, brightening
- Best for: Fine lines, wrinkles, mature skin, dry skin, normal skin, sensitive skin
- How to apply: According to SkinCeuticals, four to five drops can be applied to a dry face, neck, and chest each morning.
Why it’s -approved: “Skinceuticals CE Ferulic is the gold standard and works well for those with dry skin,” says Dr Corey L. Hartman. This -approved vitamin C serum delivers environmental protection, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves firmness, and brightens via a cocktail of vitamin C and the antioxidant properties of ferulic acid and vitamin E.
Why it’s -approved: Prequel is a US-born skincare brand that has recently launched in the UK and has made quite a splash. While the cleanser has an immediate seal of approval from the team, the Multi-Quench Plumping Hydration Serum has been a dark horse. Aesthetic nurse Teresa O’Nwere-Tan is a fan. She says, “For skin that needs additional hydration, I would add a dedicated hydrating serum. This is particularly useful as skin becomes drier with age or when your routine contains active ingredients.”
Why it’s -approved: When detailing the products that actually work, aesthetic doctor Dr Richard Devine highlighted this formula from Clarins. “I consistently come back to it and genuinely notice a difference,” he tells . The face serum is beloved for its impact on fine lines, radiance, firmness and the appearance of pores. It harnesses 22 plant extracts as well as the brand’s own Epi-Ageing Defence Technology. The formula is lightweight and dual-phase, providing deep hydration for the complexion.
- Best azelaic acid for: visible impact on acne and rosacea
- Why it’s -approved: As one of the first skincare brands to extol the benefits of azelaic acid, this Paula’s Choice formula has earned its place on your bathroom shelf. It combines the named ingredient with salicylic acid and plant extracts to combat the impact of sun damage like dark spots, aid in the healing of post-breakout scars, calm redness and boost radiance. Its non-scented formula can be applied to sensitive skin, and it works particularly well for those with acne or rosacea to leave the complexion smooth and soft. There is a reason it has been lauded as a skin saviour.
- Key ingredients: Azelaic acid, salicylic acid and plant extract
- Calms redness
- Speeds up acne healing
- Quite thick for a serum
- Why it’s -approved: This niacinamide serum doesn’t just stop excess sebum in its tracks – it mends wounds and targets dark marks, too. Bolstered by brightening ingredients, consistent use helps lift old acne scars and heal active breakouts. Thanks to the work of tranexamic acid – which sounds intense, but accelerates blood clotting on broken skin – it’s a great choice for strengthening an impaired skin barrier.
- Niacinamide strength: 10 per cent
- Key ingredients: tranexamic acid, alpha arbutin
- Why it’s Inspired by the rise of injectable wrinkle-relaxing treatments, SkinCeuticals’ P-Tiox Cream is designed to target visible expression lines through a sophisticated blend of neuropeptide-inspired actives and hydrating ingredients. The formula combines peptides, which help support collagen production and skin elasticity, with deeply moisturising ingredients that immediately improve skin smoothness and suppleness. Rich without feeling heavy, it leaves skin looking fresher, smoother and noticeably more refined over time.
- Key ingredients: peptides, niacinamide, zinc PCA
How long should you use a product before judging its results?
According to Professor Ali Al-Hussaini, “I would give them at least six to twelve weeks of consistent use before deciding whether they’re working.” He adds, “Ingredients targeting collagen, pigmentation or more established signs of ageing may need several months. The exception is if you’re experiencing persistent irritation, swelling or a significant reaction, in which case you shouldn’t simply push through it.”
How can you tell whether a product is genuinely working and what are signs that you should stop using it?
Irritation or purging can occur when you first introduce active ingredients like retinol into your routine, so how do you tell the difference between what is normal and what means you should stop using the product? Well, says Professor Al-Hussaini, “Look at your skin over months rather than days. Depending on what you’re treating, you should gradually notice improvements in things like texture, hydration, breakouts, pigmentation or fine lines. Taking photographs in the same lighting every four to six weeks can actually be much more useful than checking your skin in the mirror every morning.” He continues, flagging that when you are experiencing “burning, significant redness, itching, swelling or skin that constantly feels sore and tight,” that is a sign to stop using it and not an indication that it is “working.”
What are the non-negotiables for a basic morning and evening routine that will give long-term results?
When curating a skincare routine of just the essentials, a morning routine should include a cleanser, antioxidant serum, moisturiser and SPF, reveals Dr Devine. And, come evening, cleansing becomes all the more important, he says, “to remove sunscreen, pollution and the build-up of the day, then use a retinoid followed by moisturiser.” The expert says that it doesn’t need to be complicated. “If we're talking about the fundamentals that will genuinely make a difference to how the skin looks and ages over the next ten or twenty years, daily sun protection, antioxidants and retinoids are the three things I would prioritise. Consistency with proven ingredients will always achieve more than constantly changing your routine or chasing the latest skincare trend.”
For a more advanced routine, what would you add for long-term results?
Once you have locked in the basics, there are other active ingredients that can support skin health. “Retinoids would be high on that list because of the evidence behind their ability to support collagen production, improve cell turnover and address fine lines, pigmentation and texture over time,” reveals Dr Devine. He adds that depending on your concerns, other ingredients like peptides, niacinamide, azelaic acid, or AHAs and BHAs can be included too. But cautions, “The important thing with actives is not to throw everything at the skin at once. A more advanced routine should be more targeted, not simply contain more products. Every ingredient should have a purpose, and the best long-term results come from choosing the right actives for your skin and using them consistently.”
Which products should you always use and which should you take breaks from?
The stalwarts in your skincare routine are the ones mentioned above: cleanser, moisturiser and SPF. These never need to be paused. As for antioxidants like vitamin C, retinoids and exfoliating acids, they can be used consistently according to aesthetic nurse Teresa O'Nwere-Tan, but “should be adjusted according to how your skin responds.” She adds, “There is no need to routinely take breaks from active ingredients if they are working well and your skin is comfortable. Equally, there is no benefit in pushing through persistent irritation. If your skin becomes red, sensitive, unusually dry, or your barrier feels compromised, scale things back and allow it to recover. Long-term results come from consistency, but also from recognising when your skin needs less rather than more.”
What products should you start in your 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s?
There are different skincare priorities during different decades. Nurse Teresa O'Nwere-Tan breaks it down, while stressing that these are guidelines rather than rules and depend on skin tolerance:
Which products are worth splurging on and which can you save on?
The expert says that a cleanser need not be expensive: “It’s in contact with your skin for such a short amount of time, so I would choose something gentle and effective and save more of your budget for products that remain on the skin.” On the other hand, serums and actives, she believes, are worth the investment “particularly vitamin C and retinoids, where formulation, stability and delivery can make a difference.” Finally, when it comes to SPF, it is more important that you are consistent, and that is only possible when it is easy or a joy to apply, regardless of price.
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