The perm peaked in the 1980s, when tight, crisp ringlets were teased to achieve maximum springiness with plenty of backcombing, mousse and hairspray. Dolly Parton, Olivia Newton-John, Whitney Houston and Barbra Streisand were all proponents of the look, showcasing impressive root lift and cascading curls that – to today’s artfully undone woman – might feel just a little va-va-voom.
Needless to say, the treatment fell out of fashion; so much so that merely saying the word “perm” is enough to raise an eyebrow. But what if I told you there’s a new perm on the scene? One that makes the kind of relaxed, beachy texture we’re all trying to achieve with the help of products and tongs an everyday reality – no styling required? Think Oona from , some of the mussed-up manes at Anna Sui’s recent spring/summer 2027 show, or Nicole Kidman on the press trail. Something tells me you’d be willing to hear me out.
The dream I describe can be a reality, thanks to Sean Paul Nother and Nick Latham, otherwise known as the Hair Bros, whose salon in London’s Chelsea is frequented by some of the city’s coolest faces. Together with their perm specialist, Adam Murphy, they have reinvented the perm for the woman who wants natural movement and texture in her hair every day, but doesn’t want to have to work hard for it. “The idea is to add volume and life to hair that might not otherwise have it,” the pair explain. “It’s for people whose hair typically falls flat, limp and straight after they’ve washed it. A natural perm helps it behave beautifully, even when it’s left to air dry.”
Whereas perm solutions of old worked by breaking certain bonds within the hair structure, then resetting them into their new shape using ingredients like hydrogen peroxide, newer formulas are much gentler on the hair. This particular technique hails from East Asia, according to Murphy, and uses a solution that gently penetrates the hair’s outer layers, targeting specific bonds to coax it into a soft, fluid shape. “The process happens at room temperature with no heat machines or ammonia, helping to keep the hair moisturised, strong and shiny,” he adds.
The Hair Bros are already known for their face-framing, wash-and-go cuts, and the idea behind introducing the natural perm was to enhance those haircuts that might benefit from a little extra movement. See Shanti, one of their longtime clients, who had a shag cut in and wanted to wake up with the same lived-in, cool-girl texture every day – not just when she (or her hairstylist) had made the effort to style it. It worked a treat.
“Whether you have drastic layers or soft, invisible pieces that sit subtly in the hair, a natural perm will enhance the cut and allow those with straighter texture to wake up, scrunch and go,” explain the duo. “Even fringes can be gently permed to create subtle bends that frame the cheekbones and lips.” Might this is be a shortcut to the perfect curtain bangs, too?
Instead of uniformly wrapping the hair tightly from root to tip – as they did in the ’80s – this modern technique is tailored to the specific areas of the hair that need it. “We leave some areas out, often keep roots natural and use soft, large winders predominantly through the mid-lengths and ends,” explains Murphy. “This creates subtle bends, waves and flicks that accentuate the haircut – and a style that looks like it’s grown that way naturally.”
Oona in , centre.
Courtesy of PrimeIf you’re already a curly girl, it can also be a great way to enhance curls that are inconsistent in certain areas. Plus, it can help blow-dries hold their shape and volume for longer – particularly if you’re someone whose hair tends to drop soon after styling. It isn’t, however, suitable for heavily bleached hair which “lacks the internal protein scaffolding needed to hold a soft wave”, Murphy explains. If more than around 30 per cent of your hair has been lightened with bleach, he advises against the treatment, so speak to your stylist before booking an appointment.
Priced between £300 and £400, with top-up treatments recommended every six months or so, the treatment is set to officially launch at The Hair Bros in the coming months. “This won’t look like a salon perm,” Murphy emphasises. “It’s more like your hair has air-dried bends that move when you walk, hold their shape and give a natural flick – without needing a round brush every morning.” What could be better than that?