If the spring/summer 2026 collections were an exercise in anti-algorithm dressing, then the following autumn/winter 2026 season took things a step further, leaving the physical (and digital) world behind and escaping to a fantasy land where story-telling and whimsy can take us away from the realities of modern-day life. “A new folklore, for the future”, as Nicholas Ghesquière described it. Of course, the pressures of managing a fashion brand in an increasingly corporatised landscape still loom, but the new-season offerings proved that in 2026, there is still room for creative directors to – whisper it – have a little fun.
Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton show is, perhaps, a good place to start our story. The runway was held in the summer apartments of Anne d’Autriche, queen of France, which for one day was transformed into a moss-covered “neo-landscape”, masterminded by the production designer Jeremy Hindle. It was a suitably fantastical set up for the architectural Turkish kepenek-inspired cloaks that kicked off the presentation, and the eclectic ensembles that followed – many of which were embellished with sheep motifs from Ukrainian artist Nazar Strelyaev-Nazarko. “Ghesquière was asking us to dream, or at least to get out of our sartorial comfort zones,” ’s Nicole Phelps said.
The Key Autumn/Winter 2026 Trends To Shop Now:
At Loewe, meanwhile, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez set the tone with Cosima von Bonin’s supersized stuffed animals, which greeted guests on arrival. There was an unapologetic playfulness that ran throughout the colourful collection. “For us, it was really about the joy of making,” McCollough told . Indeed, there was nothing self-serious or quiet luxury about the 3D-printed latex dresses in citrus fruit shades, teddy bear textures or pumped-up, life jacket-inspired outerwear that populated the runway.
Nineties references have nothing short of dominated the fashion landscape for some time, super-charged by the release of in which Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy’s famously minimalist wardrobe is displayed centre stage. The Noughties, too, have been a source of inspiration for designers – especially those keen to tap into new-gen shoppers, whose obsession with fashion from this era seemingly knows no end (baggy jeans and cropped tops have become a uniform for 2020s teens). These era tropes are by no means over, but the dial has shifted to even further back.
The runways of Gabriella Hearst, McQueen and Givenchy were gripped by a gothic mood, which was no less transporting than the more outré propositions. Hearst sent out wind-tussled models draped in billowing cloaks worthy of the Brothers Grimm; Sean McGirr stayed true to McQueen’s roots with femme fatale corsetry and creeping lace, meanwhile McQueen alumni Sarah Burton brought an antique oil painting-like quality to her eveningwear with rich botanical embroidery and Art Deco-inspired jewellery (a motif also spotted at Valentino). A Daphne Du Maurier-worthy heroine for the digital age. As for how to interpret such a mood into your wardrobe? Rifle through vintage shops ( the thrifts that are ’90s and 2000s caves) to find a well-worn piece, preferably embellished with needlework or beading that deems it as much an artefact as something to wear. There’ll no doubt be a stream of new-season options flooding the market imminently, too.
But, eventually, even the greatest creative minds have to come back down to earth. The key, perhaps, is finding escapism in the every day: a Jonathan Anderson for Dior Bar jacket grounded by slouchy jeans, say, or a glimmer of Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel printed chainmail for Friday night cocktails.
As always, Miuccia Prada said it best: “I wanted to create with humanity, with gentleness, with poetry, with romance. Because we are small in the world, but we are enough.” —
A new-era “ladylike”
Clockwise from top left to bottom left: Chanel AW26, Dior AW26, Balenciaga AW26, Kallmeyer AW26, Proenza Shouler AW26.
“Ladylike” is a term loaded with stereotypes – think prim top-handle bags, gloves and demure tailoring. In 2026, however, it has taken on a new meaning. The blueprint is still elegant, as evidenced by Johnathan Anderson’s new interpretations of the historic Dior Bar jacket and Matthieu Blazy’s takes on the Chanel skirt suit. But the mood is less “costume” and more everyday dressing. Anderson’s Bar jackets were styled with slouchy denim, which brought a nonchalantly contemporary twist to the iconic silhouette. Meanwhile, Blazy spun Chanel’s signature bouclé into boxy cuts that promoted easier wear; on the runway, they came with untucked longline shirts.
Wrapped Midi-Skirt In Bonded Wool And Mohair
Clockwise from top left to bottom left: Khaite AW26, Kallmeyer AW26, Rabanne AW26, Conner Ives AW26, Chanel AW26.
The 2020s have proven to be wildly different from the 1920s, but that hasn’t stopped designers from casting their minds back a century to seek out inspiration. After all, Art Deco-leaning silhouettes and finishes are timeless: intricate beaded embroidery would look just as striking on an awards ceremony red carpet today as it would have done on the world’s stage 100 years ago. Some designers took a more literal interpretation – Lanvin and Prada’s beaded tunic dresses, for example – while others offered a more subtle nod via flapper-coded embellishment and lace. A welcome departure from the structured quiet luxury of seasons past.
Silk-Trimmed Grain De Poudre Wool-Blend Barrel-Leg Pants
The power of styling
Clockwise from top left to bottom left: Ferragamo AW26, Loewe AW26, Prada AW26, Johanna Parv AW26, The Row (middle).
The internet’s algorithm has a tendency to churn out generic outfit formulas that may seem unique to the user, but since we’re all seeing and sharing the same material, people end up dressing the same. The best way to beat the algorithm? Make like Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons who sent a cast of 15 models down the runway, each wearing four looks that transformed in real-time. Proof that a wardrobe full of well-loved, versatile pieces is better than buying something new every time you’re faced with a dressing dilemma. Consider a skirt that you can wear to the office then hitch up for dinner, or a low-cut cami that can be layered over a long-sleeved top or sported solo as a party piece. The more ways you can wear the wardrobe pieces that best define you, the better.
Cotton Rich Funnel-Neck Parka Coat
Playful proportions
Clockwise from top left to bottom left: Stella McCartney AW26, Givenchy AW26, Jil Sander AW26, and Celine AW26.
Runways are fertile ground for proportion play, be it a dramatic train trailing behind a model as they walk, a full-bodied, pannier skirt or cinched peplum waists on blazers. As Matthieu Blazy proved at his autumn/winter 2026 Chanel show – his sophomore ready-to-wear offering for the house – slight adjustments to silhouettes can deliver just as much impact as more obvious manipulations. Dropped waists were a primary focus for the creative director, spanning an oat-hued sweater vest and pleated skit combination, embellished matching separates, and rigid, long-sleeved dresses with plunging V necklines. Sarah Burton, meanwhile, brought the waist higher on the hips, via several close-cut double-breasted jackets.
Hooded Cropped Plush-Trimmed Shell Bomber Jacket
Women’s Fold Over Trousers In Black
Back to the body
Photos: Courtesy of Gucci, Jil Sander, Alaia, Valentino, Khaite.
The body was the primary focus of Pieter Mulier’s final collection for Alaïa. “It’s just really clothes for real people, not for an image. That’s what I told my team.” Mulier told . “To reduce, reduce. No bags, no jewellery. Only beauty and clothes and a naked shoe. Because that’s what Azzedine was.” Paying homage to the brand’s namesake and commitment to tight, bodycon silhouettes, Mulier presented a conveyer belt of stripped-back designs, including tank dresses of midi and mini lengths, and long-sleeved, gossamer-thin maxis with skintight pockets. Similarly skimpy dresses also arrived at Jean Paul Gaultier, Schiaparelli, Fendi and Gucci, proposing a welcome switch-up to the oversized silhouettes that were also doing the rounds in fashion cities this season.
Knitted Scoop Neck Draped Maxi Drop-Waist Dress
Down to earth
It’s not unusual for autumn collections to take inspiration from the countryside – whether it’s heritage plaids, khaki barn jackets, or some kind of cozy knit variation. As grounding as the source material may be, this season’s expression turns out to be more elaborate than ever. Nowhere is that more apparent than in the floral prints peppered throughout the collections: they’re richer, deeper, and even moodier than in past seasons. Par for the course, intricate floral brocades appeared at Dries Van Noten on everything from outerwear to midi-skirts. Simone Rocha and Erdem also showcased their fair share of flora and fauna, from draped dresses to blouses, proving that the look can move between moods and occasions.
Sentista Belted Printed Duchesse-Satin Midi-Skirt
ZW Collection Mid-Waist Barrel Floral Jean
