The return of ’90s fashion is hardly new territory for the Shopping desk. But if 2026 has proved anything, it’s that our collective obsession with the decade isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. This year, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy fever swept the headlines for months, coinciding with the release of Ryan Murphy’s hit drama , which (albeit after a few costume department consultations) sparked a return to the late fashion icon’s off-duty photographs, in search of styling inspiration.

“The online deluge of CBK content isn’t just generating likes; it’s been driving sales, too – a quick browse of the websites of Massimo Dutti or Reformation will give you some idea of just how swiftly brands have moved to capitalise on consumer fascination with this uncomplicated, clean aesthetic,” wrote ’s Emma Spedding in her recent story on minimalism’s continued grip on our autumn wardrobes. She outlined the single-breasted longline coat as a key piece in achieving the sought-after CBK look – alongside a pencil skirt, turtleneck vest and simple leather bag.

Such coats were a cornerstone of the ’90s collections of Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Helmut Lang, characterised by (but not bound to) clean lines, understated single-breasted buttoning, discreet masculine lapels and a long, lean silhouette. Usually rendered in a palette of black, charcoal grey, beige, camel and chocolate brown.

CBK was frequently photographed on the streets of New York in versions crafted from both wool and lighter-weight gabardine, styled off-duty with straight-leg jeans, oval sunglasses and an Alice band by day, or draped over a simple LBD (probably Calvin Klein) with pointed black slingbacks (probably Prada) into the night. Kate Moss, too, favoured the style in her early Soho days, often opting for a cashmere camel iteration.

Kate Moss in 1994.

Ron Galella, Ltd./Getty Images

For autumn/winter 2026, the coat shape was a key style on the runway. Jil Sander, unsurprisingly, remains something of an authority on the subject, offering a multitude of interpretations, from extra-long and oversized to collarless and polished leather styles. Elsewhere, designers have found ways to disrupt the coat’s pared-back credentials. Dries Van Noten introduced a satin finish and statement pixelated graphic, while Miu Miu did what Miu Miu does best and took the familiar shape, rendered it in crumpled leather and added a fuzzy faux-fur trim.

Unlike more statement-making outerwear that often dominates the discourse, a well-cut, single-breasted coat does a lot with very little, whether layered over tailoring for the office, worn with jeans and loafers at the weekend or thrown over eveningwear as the nights draw in.

Miu Miu AW26.

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Calvin Klein AW26.

Courtesy of Calvin Klein

Look for a shape that falls below the knee, a relatively clean shoulder line and enough room to accommodate a knit underneath, without swamping you when worn with bare arms. Of course, wool and cashmere styles will earn their keep on colder days, but lighter cotton versions make a useful option for milder weather and transitional dressing.

The long-line ’90s coat makes a convincing case for buying less, but buying well. Scroll on to discover our edit of the best minimalist coats to shop now.

Shop ’s edit of ’90s coats now…