When it comes to make-up application, there are some non-negotiables in terms of the chronology of steps. Primer, of course, is foundational. Liner needs to be layered on top of shadow, and mascara completes an eye look. It’s just the logistical order of things for the most ease. The same was once true for skincare. Skincare should be the very first thing that goes onto your skin before complexion base products, right? Well, yes and no.
Even before no-make-up make-up dominated beauty trends, having a hydrated, even and smooth base was one of the first things that we are taught or learn about enhancing make-up application. It makes sense. Make-up sits better on skin that is nourished, offering lasting power and minimising the likelihood of patchiness, peeling or cracking. But it can also do wonders to make-up that has already been applied, especially to refresh foundation, concealer and blush that has been on the skin for a long time.
This is something that I noticed popping up on my TikTok, so when I went backstage at Erdem’s spring/summer 2027 during London Fashion Week, I was intrigued to see the skincare over make-up trend in action. For the show, make-up artist Lynsey Alexander took inspiration from the interplay between masculine and feminine ideas. “I’m using Merit eyebrow pencils and brow to lift the brow to make it a little straighter so it looks more boyish, and we’re leaving the lashes with no mascara,” she explained. Instead, there was an emphasis on the skin itself, prepped in advance with SkinCeuticals’ P-Tox cream and highlighter on the skin and eyes to create “a humid wet feel so they look like they are moving in a performance manner.”
As part of a collaboration between Erdem and Merit, Alexander applied new Merit lipsticks in Black Tie and Bespoke to create what she calls a “low boy blush that’s not girly or feminine but more like a cold flush cheek.” But the pièce de résistance? “I love to use skincare back on top of make-up, so I’m adding Skin Serum on top of the foundation to bring back the skin.”
Describing the hack, Alexander says it’s long been a thing for make-up artists, especially backstage. “I find people can be heavy-handed, and I prefer to see the models’ real skin. So by going back over the foundation you’re sort of re-massaging in moisture that breaks down the make-up and brings back that reality.”
The expert calls it a “rescue remedy backstage” but believes it has wider appeal beyond just a backstage setting. She believes a hydrating facial spray or touch of serum “brings the skin back to life.” But it is important to use the right skincare to avoid dreaded pilling.
Hailey Bieber has also proven to be a fan of the technique, combining her Rhode Glazing Milk with Dior Forever Skin Perfect Foundation Stick to enhance luminosity and create her signature glazed look. Meanwhile, content creators have shown the benefits of using the likes of Byoma’s Hydrating Milky Toner to blend in contouring for a more glowy, seamless finish.
Below, shop -recommended skincare over make-up products, and the best skincare to enhance your base and revive your complexion.
Great Skin Instant Glow Serum
- Why it’s -approved: This fluid, bi-phase serum is ideal for anyone who wants to improve plumpness and hydration without feeling like you’ve got anything on your skin. Hyaluronic acid takes care of deep-down hydration, while niacinamide is on hand to encourage better clarity and a more refined texture. Cacao seed extract is rich in caffeine to boost blood flow and promote better circulation in the skin.
- bi-phase serum
- hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, cacao seed extract
Why it’s -approved: Skin barrier repair is the mission behind the creation of each of the products in the Byoma collection – and the Hydrating Milky Toner perfectly encapsulates this. The milky formula is a treat to the skin, and then you have polyglutamic acid and cica to soothe and nourish.
Why it’s -approved: The glazing mist arrived, complete with a chunky stick-on mirror case and infused with ingredients that nourish, purify and lift the skin. I like to spritz the mist over my face and décolletage in place of a heavy-duty setting mist. This works wonders when the only make-up I want to wear consists of blush and skin tint. What’s more, the results are long-lasting, so a little really does go a long way.
Beauty Sunglaze Sheer Setting Mist Sunscreen SPF 50
For a dewy, luminous finish, Kopari Beauty’s Sunglaze Sheer Setting Mist Sunscreen is one you’ll want in your routine. It is infused with skincare-favourites hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid, radiance boosting vitamin C and nourishing vitamin E – but taking the glow to the next level, there is ethically sourced mica that leaves a healthy sheen on the skin. The formula is boosted too with SPF 50 as the icing on the cake.
- Best SPF setting spray for: skin radiance
- Why it's -approved: San Diego-born and sweet smelling
Why it’s -approved: For a mist that you can layer over make-up without clogging pores, dermatological doctor Dr Nora Jaafar says Tatcha’s Luminous Dewy Skin Mist is her personal favourite. “It contains humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid alongside emollients like squalane, so it hydrates while giving that dewy finish without disrupting make-up,” she explains.