Many It-bags of the past century have come with price tags that run into the thousands – or, in the case of the Hermès Birkin, the tens of thousands. But, of course, that isn’t to say a high mark-up is the determining factor of whether a bag is “It” or not: take Longchamp’s Le Pliage, which starts at a very reasonable £125. It’s still an investment, though priced significantly lower than its counterparts.

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The classic Le Pliage bag

Longchamp Le Pliage Original Handbag

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The bag might be firmly embedded in the mainstream, but this hasn’t deterred the expansion of its youthful, increasingly fashion-savvy fanbase. The same celebrities and customers who have designer stores on speed-dial remain loyal to their Le Pliages, using them for everything from air travel and errands to gym classes.

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Versatility has been at the heart of Le Pliage’s design from the outset. First designed by Philippe Cassegrain in 1993, the practical tote is made from washable nylon canvas, with a leather flap closure and leather handles. Inspired by origami (“pliage” means “folding” in French), the bag can easily be folded away.

Le Pliage has French roots, but it found fame across the pond in the early Noughties. The bag became a well-loved staple among university students – including the Princess of Wales, who carried it during her studies at St. Andrews – a phenomenon that was documented in and the final series of The Crown. A starter-pack item beloved by the Ugg- and Hollister-wearing crowd of the era, it was also a hallmark of Alexa Chung’s indie sleaze phase in the latter 2010s (she still carries one to this day).

Today, a stroll down King’s Road reveals a plethora of Le Pliages, but you’ll also spot them in other areas of London, being worn both ironically and non-ironically. As contributor Emma Spedding pointed out earlier this year, TikTok has deemed Le Pliage the ultimate “book bag” and “beginner designer bag” for Gen Z shoppers – who famously love reviving nostalgic items released before their time. Clearly its legacy is set to continue.