Prada’s Wish Pouch, Phoebe Philo’s Peak sunglasses and Celine’s Reebok Freestyles are among the hottest products of the moment, per shopping platform Lyst’s newly-released Lyst Index for the third quarter of 2026. So far, so predictable… but another, more surprising item has sneaked its way into its list of the top 10 hottest products for Q3: the classic Cartier Tank.

It’s the first time since 2021 that a watch has found its way into the Lyst top 10 – back when interest in the Rolex Submariner peaked after “engagement watches” became a gifting trend for loved-up couples. Now, demand for the 1919-launched watch, beloved by Jackie O, Princess Diana, Meghan Markle, Paul Mescal and Michelle Obama, has soared by an impressive 83 per cent. “I plan to give it to my daughter one day,” Markle said of her own Cartier Tank in a past interview. “That’s what makes pieces special, the connection you have to them.”

A vintage Cartier Tank has long been a sought-after style for second-hand watch fans. And while an eye for good vintage often comes naturally to seasoned shoppers, preloved watches can feel like one category that requires some kind of preexisting qualification. It can all seem overwhelming: how will I know if it’s genuine? What if the dial has been redone? Is the gem-setting original, or embellished? Do I need the original box and papers? Do I really have to spend £1,000 on a service? The watch world can seem hyper-specific, even impenetrable. It doesn’t have to be.

Whether you're investing in said Cartier Tank, a jade dial Piaget Tradition from the ’60s, or a coiling Bulgari Serpenti that will put you in the same club as Dua Lipa and Anne Hathaway, follow these steps to navigate the vintage watch market with confidence.

Do your research (from the comfort of your own couch)

Vintage watch shopping is inherently non-democratic. Those who have spent years learning what to look for are at a natural advantage. However, you too can brush up on your watch knowledge with the help of social media. Vintage watches are learned visually before they’re learned technically. The more images you absorb, the faster your eye develops. Follow collectors, dealers and auction houses and start noticing patterns: case shapes, dial fonts, bracelet styles. Make a moodboard and train your eye all at once!

Consider yourself a maximalist? Then perhaps a vintage Piaget with a gorgeous lapis dial is for you. Are you more minimalist in your approach? Then look to the classic Cartier Tank. A fan of good old fashioned glamour? Then seek out a Bulgari Serpenti.

Get hands-on

All of the above being said, vintage watches are objects to handle, not just admire – and you need to try things on IRL! Go to auction previews, visit vintage dealers, try things on in stores. Pay attention to scale, weight and how a watch sits on your wrist.

Auction previews from houses like Sotheby’s are particularly useful, because you can handle watches worth thousands or even hundreds of thousands of pounds with no obligation to buy. Live your full gem-set fantasy, but take note of what actually looks good on you. And don’t be shy about asking questions. Auction specialists and dealers actually enjoy talking about watches with curious buyers. This is how collectors learn. Be confident in your taste. Curiosity and openness pays off.

Know where to look

Hailey Bieber is a longtime vintage watch fan, with pieces by Piaget and Audemars Piguet in her collection.

Not all vintage sources are created equal. eBay is a fantastic resource, just make sure to browse verified sellers and shop using the platform’s Authenticity Guarantee. At the recent Vogue Vintage Sale in London, one lucky Live shopper got their hands on a Rolex Datejust.

Dealer websites like Françoise Watches and Tortoise Watches always have interesting inventory to peruse, super clear images and a great roster of Cartier Tanks. In the UK, Watchfinder also offers an excellent selection of Cartier timepieces. Auction houses like Phillips, Christie’s and Sotheby’s are also useful to watch, even if you’re not bidding. If you feel like doing some extra homework, specialist sites like Collectability offer in-depth information across a range of Patek Philippe timepieces.

Let someone else do the homework

Watches often feel like they have more of a barrier to entry than, say, jewels or a fashion classic like vintage Chanel ballet flats. In the vintage watch field, who you buy from matters as much as what you buy. A reputable dealer is doing due diligence for you, so you can feel confident about originality, condition and service history. Seek out established dealers, specialists or respected online sellers. For beginners especially, this matters far more than trying to find the absolute lowest price. Over time, you’ll develop relationships with people whose taste and expertise you trust.

Learn through ownership

One of the strange truths of vintage collecting is that you don’t really know a watch until you’ve had a chance to live with it. You might love something in photos, buy it, wear it for a few months, and realise it’s not quite right. That’s normal. Collectors refine their taste by buying, wearing and sometimes selling watches on. The secondary market exists for exactly this reason. A watch that isn’t right for you may be perfect for someone else. If you do decide to resell, presentation matters. Keep any original box or papers if you have them, and hold onto service receipts, which help build confidence for the next buyer.

Finally… follow your eye, not the market

A lot of vintage advice gets overly technical. Reference numbers, production years, dial variations… But for many shoppers entering the space, the best starting point is simply what you’re drawn to. Case shapes, unusual bracelets, stone dials, smaller proportions and so on. The watch world is far broader than the usual “steel sports watch” conversation. Follow your heart – and your visual compass. If a watch makes you want to wear it every day, that instinct is worth trusting.