A startling situation was brought to my attention at the hairdressers a couple of weeks ago. I was getting my hair cut, scrolling on my phone and minding my own business (natch), when the stylist pointed out that I had a grey hair. I almost dropped my phone. I knew, of course, that it was going to happen; I just didn’t want it to happen so soon. My first grey hair. What do I do? As someone with dark brown hair who has never dyed it, I was out of my depth. The grey was very obvious against the rest of my hair, and yet the myth of pulling it out for five more to come was at the forefront of my mind (it is not factually accurate but just in case!). It was not just the colour either, but the texture – wiry and coarse.
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I wanted to get to the bottom of why this occurs. What causes grey hair, and why does it feel like a different texture? “Hair goes grey when your follicles, tiny pigment factories, start shutting down,” explains colourist Hannah Gayle, who is based out of Hershesons Belgravia. “When there is less melanin and less colour, eventually, silver/white hairs appear; basically, your hair is saying, ‘I’m retiring from the dye department.’ Your DNA decides when your hair’s little pigment factories start clocking out, and when pigment production slows down, the follicle can change too. So grey hairs often grow coarser, drier, wirier and a little more unruly.”
Hair colourist Josh Wood adds that while the biggest factor is genetics, “There can also be other influences, including stress and overall health.” He adds that while some people “are lucky enough to develop beautifully soft, silky grey hair,” for others, “it can feel thicker, coarser and a little more unruly.”
In my case, and most commonly, grey hair appears at the temples and hairline. Wood confirms this as the norm: “Generally, the pattern tends to start at the front and gradually work its way towards the back of the head.”
So it became my mission to find a solution to these first grey hairs. It seemed to me I had three choices with just the sporadic greys that had materialised so far: embrace them, blend or cover. Dyeing my whole head of hair seemed far too dramatic and costly. With that in mind, below are the tried-and-tested ways to shield or celebrate your greys.
“There are so many temporary solutions now for blending those first signs of grey without committing to permanent colour,” Wood tells me. “I like to think of it as having a whole wardrobe of wash-out solutions – from the Blending Brush to Root Smudge – which can be used to disguise and soften the appearance of those first few greys.”
The key, says Gayle, is “not battling the greys.” She advises to “work with them, not against them. Grey hair can be seriously beautiful, and those silver strands can actually add softness and dimension. Going straight into full coverage can box you in later, so I’d keep it seamless, subtle and low maintenance. Let the greys be part of the look, not something we have to hide.”
She shares a top industry trick for when you need a quick-fix solution: “Try a little eyeshadow on the greys. It gives the softest, most natural-looking coverage without harsh products transferring all over your clothes. Just shade up from your natural hair colour. Then leave your hair undone.”
There are permanent and semi-permanent options should you wish to cover your first grey hairs. Glaze’s Supergloss is my favourite, where I opted for Sleek Espresso that is a great match to my hair and easily disguises the greys while remaining low commitment. It applies like a gloss after shampooing; you leave it on for 10 minutes and then rinse out. Depending on how deep you want the colour, you can repeat this at your next hair wash day, or the colour will last 10 washes.
Gayle is a fan of the Shades EQ gloss, which she says “adds gorgeous, sheer tones without the heaviness of permanent colour.” She adds, “It brings back beautiful depth, enhances your natural dimension and makes those greys come alive in the most effortless way.”
The benefit of these options is the wash-out nature that gives you control. Wood says you can “build up the desired density of coverage and you can really customise the result depending on how much grey you want to disguise – there’s no reason you should have to see a grey hair if you don’t want to.”
Shades EQ Demi Permanent Hair Colour
Magic Retouch Instant Root Spray
While my initial reaction was one of shock, grey hairs are a natural part of ageing. If it’s the texture rather than the shade that is more of a concern, arm your bathroom cabinet with nourishing formulas that will support hydration and leave your locks silky smooth. “Making grey hair look bright and, perhaps more importantly, smooth is a great way to embrace it,” Wood concurs, recommending hair gloss treatments and deeply hydrating masks to bring sparkle, vibrancy and smoothness “so it looks glossy, healthy and in optimum condition.” He advises to “use a hair mask once a week – it’s a really simple way to nurture the hair, boost shine and create a smoother, more polished finish.”
There are also styling tips and tricks. Gayle shares: “Leave it undone”, before adding, “Think tousled texture, beachy bends and cool-girl movement. Don’t over-style it. Let the silver peek through. The messier the finish, the more effortless and sexy the greys feel.” Consider a permanent blow-dry, which she believes will “soften that harsh, coarse texture grey hair can sometimes bring. It adds silk, shine and smoothness, while taming frizz and unruly strands, without stripping away the body and volume we love. Essentially, sleeker, softer, shinier hair with all the movement still intact.”
Kérastase Blond Absolu Cicaplasme Treatment
Don’t Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask
Pure Blonde/Silver Brightening Daily Shampoo
